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cristobal balanciaga
Getaria Spain, 21 January 1895 – Xabia Spain, 23 March 1972
zodiac sign / horoscope: aquarius
couturier
His name starts with C, Cristóbal, like Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, but his surname starts with B, Balenciaga, before both of them and all the other grand couturiers in modern fashion history, “the master of us all”, thus said Christian Dior.
un modisto debe ser arquitecto para los planos, escultor para formas, pintor para el color, músico para la armonía y filósofo en el sentido de la medida.
(A designer should be architect of the floorplans, sculptor of the forms, painter for color, musician for harmony and philosopher in the sense of measurements)
- Cristobal Balenciaga
Cristobal Balenciaga working in his atelier with a model
1895
Cristobal Balenciaga was born in Getaria(Guetaria), a small coastal town of basque country in northern Spain, less than 900 km from Paris, where he obtained international fame and success.
Cristobal Balenciaga's birth place Getaria(Guetaria), in northern Spain
1907
when he was 12 years old, Balenciaga made his first dress for María Micaela de Elío y Magallón (Born in 1849) marquesa de Casa Torres and thus began his career as a dressmaker.
María Micaela de Elío y Magallón (Born in 1849) marquesa de Casa Torres
"Mi padre era pescador, mi madre costurera. Mi suerte fue que en mi pequeño pueblo (Guetaria, Guipúzcoa), cercano a San Sebastián, se encontraba la residencia de verano de una gran dama, la marquesa de Casa Torres. Yo no tenía más que ojos para ella cuando llegaba a misa el domingo, bajándose de su tílburi, con sus largos vestidos y sus sombrillas de encaje. Un día, reuniendo todo mi coraje, le pedí visitar sus armarios. Divertida, aceptó. Y así viví meses maravillosos: cada día después del colegio, trabajaba con las planchadoras de la marquesa en el último piso de su palacio de verano, acariciaba los encajes, examinaba cada pliegue, cada punto de todas estas obras maestras. Tenía 12 años cuando la marquesa me autorizó a hacerle un primer modelo. Podéis imaginar mi alegría cuando, al domingo siguiente, la amable dama llegó a la iglesia luciendo mi vestido. Así fue cómo hice mi primera entrada en la alta costura y en la alta sociedad".
- Cristobal Balenciaga, entrevista extracto
(¨My father was a fishmonger, and my mother a dressmaker. My luck was that the summer residence of one of the great madames, Marquise de Casa Torres was in my little town Guetaria, close to San Sebastián. When she arrived for misa on a Sunday, getting off her open carriage, with long dress and lace parasol, I could only had eyes for her. One day, summoning all of my courage, I asked to see her wardrobe. She was amused and accepted. I thus lived wonderfully for a few months: every day after school, I went to work with the ironers of the Marquise on the top floor of her summer palace, touching the laces, examining every fold and pleat, and every single detail of these masterpieces.
I was 12 years old when the Marquise allowed me to maker her first dress. You can imagine my joy when she arrived at the church the following Sunday wearing my dress. That was how I first entered the world of haute couture and high society.¨
- Cristobal Balenciaga, interview excerpt)
- Cristobal Balenciaga, entrevista extracto
(¨My father was a fishmonger, and my mother a dressmaker. My luck was that the summer residence of one of the great madames, Marquise de Casa Torres was in my little town Guetaria, close to San Sebastián. When she arrived for misa on a Sunday, getting off her open carriage, with long dress and lace parasol, I could only had eyes for her. One day, summoning all of my courage, I asked to see her wardrobe. She was amused and accepted. I thus lived wonderfully for a few months: every day after school, I went to work with the ironers of the Marquise on the top floor of her summer palace, touching the laces, examining every fold and pleat, and every single detail of these masterpieces.
I was 12 years old when the Marquise allowed me to maker her first dress. You can imagine my joy when she arrived at the church the following Sunday wearing my dress. That was how I first entered the world of haute couture and high society.¨
- Cristobal Balenciaga, interview excerpt)
1917
Balenciaga opened his first shop in San Sebastian, where Spanish royalty and European upper class spent their time in summer, and his clients included the Queen María Cristina and infanta Isabel Alfonsa.
Cristobal Balenciaga atelier in San Sebastian
1927
Balenciaga opened first EISA(in honor of his mother) boutique in San Sebastian, selling more affordable clothes made in Spanish tradition, which he later opened in Madrid as well as in Barcelona.
Cristobal Balenciaga portrait, 1927
The 30s
sketch of a dress for Eisa Costura, Cristobal Balenciaga
1932
Balenciaga reopened his couture house in San Sebastian Spain after suffering economic crisis.
Cristobal Balenciaga Wedding dress in floral printed silk gauze, 1933
Cristobal Balenciaga Evening coat in black taffeta silk, 1935.
(Belonged to Madame Domínguez de Arbide)
Cristobal Balenciaga Evening coat in black taffeta silk, 1935.
(Belonged to Madame Domínguez de Arbide)
Cristobal Balenciaga Evening coat in black taffeta silk, 1935.
(Belonged to Madame Domínguez de Arbide)
1937
Balenciaga opened his atelier in Paris in August, on avenue George V, which became the most exclusive and expensive couture house in Paris in the next 3 decades.
Cristobal Balenciaga haute couture salon, 10 Avenue George V, Paris, France
Infanta evening dress by Cristobal Balenciaga, 1939
Infanta evening dress by Cristobal Balenciaga, 1939
C’est le seul d’entre nous qui est un vrai couturier
(It’s the only real couturier among us.)
-Coco Chanel
The 40s
Cristobal Balenciaga Blue rayon satin dress with black silk metalic lace and velvet appliques, 1947. Belonged to doña Blanca Fernández de Rivera, marquesa de Garcillán
Cristobal Balenciaga Blue rayon satin dress with black silk metalic lace and velvet appliques, 1947. Belonged to doña Blanca Fernández de Rivera, marquesa de Garcillán
Cristobal Balenciaga Blue rayon satin dress with black silk metalic lace and velvet appliques, 1947. Belonged to doña Blanca Fernández de Rivera, marquesa de Garcillán
Haute Couture is like an orchestra whose conductor is Balenciaga. We other couturiers are the musicians and we follow the directions he gives.”
-Christian Dior
The 50s:
This is the most creative decade of Cristobal Balenciaga´s life, between 54-55, he made sketches for 607 designs, and sold 2,325 models.
Cristobal Balenciaga Black silk cocktail dress, 1953
Cristobal Balenciaga Black silk cocktail dress, 1953
Cristobal Balenciaga Silk house coat fuscia color, 1955. originally belonged to Mrs. Mona Bismarck
Cristobal Balenciaga Silk house coat fuscia color, 1955. originally belonged to Mrs. Mona Bismarck
Cristobal Balenciaga Ivory shantung silk wedding dress with golden metalic embroidery and pearl colored floral sequins, 1957.
Donated by doña Sonsoles Díez de Rivera y de Icaza
Cristobal Balenciaga Ivory shantung silk wedding dress with golden metalic embroidery and pearl colored floral sequins, 1957.
Donated by doña Sonsoles Díez de Rivera y de Icaza
Cristobal Balenciaga dress and coat modelled by Anne Gunning, photo by Henry Clarke, 1954
Cristobal Balenciaga Embroidered lace cocktail dress, 1953, photo by Henry Clarke
Cristobal Balenciaga Blue satin coctail dress with Candelieri print in gold color, 1957. Belonged to Mrs. Rachel L. Mellon
Cristobal Balenciaga Blue satin coctail dress with Candelieri print in gold color, 1957. Belonged to Mrs. Rachel L. Mellon
Cristobal Balenciaga Evening ensumble: Embroidered silk tulle jacket and ivory silk duchess satin, 1959.
Originally belonged to Mrs. Mona Bismarck
Elegance is elimination.
- Cristobal Balenciaga
1960
Balanciaga designed wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium, great granddaughter of María Micaela de Elío y Magallón, marquesa de Casa Torres
HM King Baudouin I of the Belgians and Doña Fabiola de Mora y Aragón wedding ceremony,
December 15, 1960
HM King Baudouin I of the Belgians and Doña Fabiola de Mora y Aragón wedding ceremony,
December 15, 1960
Brussels, Belgium
HM King Baudouin I of the Belgians and Doña Fabiola de Mora y Aragón wedding ceremony,
December 15, 1960
HM King Baudouin I of the Belgians and Doña Fabiola de Mora y Aragón wedding ceremony,
December 15, 1960
The 60s
Cristobal Balenciaga couture show 1961 winter season, by Cristobal Balenciaga Museoa
Cristobal Balenciaga Fuscia sleeveless dress in printed Silk taffeta, 1961. Originally belonged to Mrs. Rachel L. Mellon
Cristobal Balenciaga Jacket and cape in grey wool Cheviot, 1962. Originally belonged to Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly
Cristobal Balenciaga Jacket and cape in grey wool Cheviot, 1962. Originally belonged to Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly
Cristobal Balenciaga Wedding dress in ivory silk gazar, 1968. Donated by doña Maite Kutz
Cristobal Balenciaga Detail of wedding dress in ivory silk gazar, 1968
End of 60s Air France Stewardess Uniform:
In 1968, Cristobal Balenciaga closed his atelier in Paris, because he believed the age of haute couture was at the end, and he had no interest in the world of ready-to-wear. However, he was actually involved with it before he retired as designer, that was designing the stewardess uniforms of Air France, the only time he did design ready-to-wear.
Air France Stewardesses in their summer uniform designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
Air France Uniform for winter and summer, designed by Cristobal Balenciaga, 1969
Air France Uniform for winter and summer, designed by Cristobal Balenciaga, 1969
1968
Cristobal Balenciaga closed his ateliers and shops in Paris, San Sebastián, Madrid and Barcelona, and retired permanently as coutourier. As a man of extraordinary generosity, he introduced his best clients like Mrs Pollen, Countess Mona Bismarck to Hubert de Givenchy
Cristobal Balenciaga working in his Paris studio with model, 1968
Cristobal Balenciaga working in his Paris studio with model
Cristobal Balenciaga working in his Paris studio with model
Cristobal Balenciaga working in his Paris studio with model, 1968
1972
Last masterpiece and death:
Although officially retired, Cristobal Balenciaga accepted making wedding dress for Maria del Carmen Martínez Bordiú y Franco, granddaughter of General Franco, and 15 days later, he died.
Maria del Carmen Martínez Bordiú, granddaughter of General Franco, on her wedding ceremony, wearing wedding dress designed by Cristobal Balenciaga, 1972
Maria del Carmen Martínez Bordiú, granddaughter of General Franco, on her wedding ceremony, wearing wedding dress designed by Cristobal Balenciaga, 1972
Maria del Carmen Martínez Bordiú, granddaughter of General Franco, on her wedding ceremony, wearing wedding dress designed by Cristobal Balenciaga, 1972
Maria del Carmen Martínez Bordiú, granddaughter of General Franco, on her wedding ceremony, wearing wedding dress designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
The wedding dress of Maria del Carmen Martínez Bordiú, granddaughter of General Franco, designed by Cristobal Balenciaga, 1972
The wedding dress of Maria del Carmen Martínez Bordiú, granddaughter of General Franco, designed by Cristobal Balenciaga, 1972
Spanish Culture and art:
Cristobal Balenciaga was profoundly influenced by Spanish culture and art, such as Flemenco dance, bullfight, catholic religion, and the artworks of Spanish painters, in particular Diego Velazquez and Francisco Goya.
- Velazquez painting and balenciaga
- Flamenco dance
Mary Jane Russell in Balenciaga's "flamenco dress" of black velvet with pink ruffles, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar Sept. 1951
- Catholic religion
Francisco Goya: “El cardenal don Luis María de Borbón y Vallabriga”. Oil on canvas, 214 x 136 cm, after 1800. Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid, Spain
Luki in Cardinal Coat designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, 1953
- Bullfight
A Spanish bullfighter (matador/torero) in bolero jacket
Bolero jacket in red designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga
Bolero jacket in red designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga
Bolero jacket in red designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga
Japanese art:
Like many artists living and working in Paris during la Belle Époque (late 19th century to early 20 century), from Toulouse-Lautrec to Henri Matisse, from Claude Monet to Pablo Picasso, Cristóbal Balenciaga was also influenced by the Japanese art, for example, the ukiyo-e woodcut. His design of the barrel coat in 1947 reflected his affection of the simple line of kimono.
Barrel Coat by Cristobal Balenciaga, photo by Philippe Pottier for L'Officiel, 1947
Countess Mona Von Bismarck wearing Cristobal Balenciaga house coat with back neckline inspired by kimono
For more than 30 years, Cristobal Balenciaga dressed the most beautiful, elegant and distinguished women in the world, from European royalty and socialites to Hollywood stars to including Audrey Hepburn, Mona Von Bismarck, Grace Kelly, Duchess of Windsor, Gloria Guinness, Ava Gardner.
Marlene Dietrich (27 December 1901-Paris 6 May 1992) in suit designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
Wallis Simpson Duchess of Windsor(19 June 1896 – 24 April 1986) in dress designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
Countess Mona Von Bismarck (5 February 1897 - 10 July 1983)Gloria Guinness(27 August 1913-9 November 1980) in dress designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
Ensemble designed by Cristobal Balenciaga for Rachel Lambert Mellon(9 August 1910-17 March 2014)
Gloria Guinness(27 August 1913-9 November 1980) in dress ensemble designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
María Sonsoles de Icaza y de León, marquesa de Llanzol (Ávila, 13 August 1914-Madrid, 21 January 1996) with her two daughters, wearing a gown designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
Marella Agnelli (4 May 1927-23 February 2019) in dress designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
Audrey Hepburn (4 May 1929 – 20 January 1993) in dress designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
Jackie Kennedy Onassis (28 July, 1929 – 19 May, 1994) in coat designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
Sketch of coat designed by Cristobal Balenciaga, worn by Jackie Kennedy Onassis (28 July, 1929 – 19 May, 1994)
Grace Kelly (12 November, 1929 – 14 September, 1982) in ensemble designed by Cristobal Balenciaga
Ava Gardner (24 December 1922 – 25 January 1990) wearing the Cristobal Balenciaga tulip dress, 1960
Books
Books in English:
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Books in Spanish:
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Books in French
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Websites and Articles:
English:
- "The mysterious Cristóbal Balenciaga" by Susan Irvine, Telegraph, September 2013
Spanish:
French:
Italian:
Videos