Origin of Turtleneck
Known as the "Turtleneck" in the US and Canada, it is also referred to as a "Polo Neck" or a "Roll Neck" in the UK and a "Skivvy" in Australia.
The name "Turtleneck" refers to the high collar that envelopes the neck. The "Turtleneck" with its long collar that can be elongated or drawn back, emulates the "Turtle's neck" thus its name.
The name "Turtleneck" refers to the high collar that envelopes the neck. The "Turtleneck" with its long collar that can be elongated or drawn back, emulates the "Turtle's neck" thus its name.
History of Turtleneck
The history of high collared garments is said to date back to the 15th century. In the Middle Ages, the knights had to wear their chainmail armor as high as their neck, so they needed to have some undergarment to go all the way to their necks as well to avoid any chaffing.
In terms of the specific sweater we call "turtleneck" today, there is not an unanimous theory about its origin as well as initial appearance in fashion history.
Some sources say that the turtleneck first appeared in England in mid-1800s when the polo players wore their sweaters with extended neck. That's why "turtleneck" is also called "polo neck", particularly in England.
Others thought it was in 1890 when bicyclists started to wear sweaters with high neck to keep them warm in cold weather. As the word ”sweater” was coined in 1882, “turtleneck” being referred to as a sweater seems most likely happen around the end of 19th century.
Since then turtleneck garments were mostly worn by workers, athletes, fishermen as well as sailors, who were said to make it much more popular, like they did with sailor's collar.
Some sources say that the turtleneck first appeared in England in mid-1800s when the polo players wore their sweaters with extended neck. That's why "turtleneck" is also called "polo neck", particularly in England.
Others thought it was in 1890 when bicyclists started to wear sweaters with high neck to keep them warm in cold weather. As the word ”sweater” was coined in 1882, “turtleneck” being referred to as a sweater seems most likely happen around the end of 19th century.
Since then turtleneck garments were mostly worn by workers, athletes, fishermen as well as sailors, who were said to make it much more popular, like they did with sailor's collar.
Turtleneck and Noel Coward
noel coward in turtleneck sweater
But it was in 1920s, thanks to Noel Coward, the English writer, playright, composer, actor and singer, that turtleneck became a fashionable item rather than just a utilitarian garment.
In his own memoir, Present Indicative, Noel Coward wrote that he wore the brightly colored turtleneck sweaters “more for comfort than effect,” and in the months after he was routinely seen and photographed wearing them, he saw “more and more of our seedier West End chorus boys” wearing them as well.
In his own memoir, Present Indicative, Noel Coward wrote that he wore the brightly colored turtleneck sweaters “more for comfort than effect,” and in the months after he was routinely seen and photographed wearing them, he saw “more and more of our seedier West End chorus boys” wearing them as well.
Turtleneck and Old Hollywood
And in the decades to come, from American soldiers to French Philosophers to Hollywood stars to international style icons, all use this simple piece of garment both for practical reasons as well as a way of self expression.
During the Second World War, United States Navy adopted turtleneck as part of their uniform, while Hollywood stars such as Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, Carole Lombard, Errol Flynn, Sean Connary transformed it into a wardrobe staple.
During the Second World War, United States Navy adopted turtleneck as part of their uniform, while Hollywood stars such as Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, Carole Lombard, Errol Flynn, Sean Connary transformed it into a wardrobe staple.
Turtleneck and French connection
Then it was all about France.
French actress and chanson singer Juliette Greco, wore turtlenecks on stage, French philosopher and historian Michel Foucault on his desk, Yves Montand wore it while singing, Yves Saint Laurent wore it while designing, Brigitte Bardot wore it while filming, Catherine Deneuve and her Italian lover Marcello Mastroianni wore it together, in love.
The Irish writer, poet and playwright Samuel Beckett, who adopted Paris as his home of soul, also adopted turtleneck, and wore it everywhere on the streets of Paris.
Turtleneck’s new status
While the French was giving turtleneck its cultural and philosophical connection, the American and English were busy making it a little bit political or sexual, from Beatles to beatnik, From Youth-quake to Feminism, from angry rebelling boys to bombshell sweater girls,from Mick Jagger to James Dean, from Ernest Hemingway to Elvis Presley, from Lana Turner to Marilyn Monroe, from Jayne Mansfield to Jane Russel, turtleneck became a voice, a declaration, an identity.
Turtleneck and Audrey Hepburn
When Audrey Hepburn first appeared on silver screen in Roman Holiday, with her graceful ballerina figure and posture, the sweater girls like Lana Turner or Rita Haywarth seemed at least two sizes too big. Then three years later, in 1957, in the film Funny Face, Audrey Hepburn dancedin turtleneck, black long sleeve flat knit turtleneck, with black slim fit crop pants and black leather penny loafers. And she made turtleneck what it was supposed to be: simple, classic, chic, sophisticated, comfortable, intellectual - the most essential item in one`s wardrobe.
Turtleneck and two Steves
Many men have worn turtlenecks, most famous men and iconic men among them, but perhaps no men like Steve MacQueen in the 70s or Steve Jobs in the 80s have worn a piece of garment so symbolically. Steve McQueen was not tall, not handsome, but like Gianni Agnelli and Duke of Windsor could wear double breast suit better than almost anyone else, he could wear sweaters, pullover or cardigan, shawl collar or turtleneck, and particularly turtleneck, even when the color of his Bullitt turtleneck does not really match that of his brown suit. He wore them as if they were part of his body, part of him.
Before he had the vision to change the world of music and how we listen to it, Steve Jobs was visionary for his own wardrobe: he lived minimalism before it became fashion.
He asked the Japanese designer Issey Miyake design and make hundreds of mock turtleneck sweat shirts and sweaters for him, all in black, "which can last me for the rest of my life". And then he wore them, with jeans, and white sneakers, everywhere.
It was not always a beautiful sight, however, particularly when he was hit by cancer: the increasingly thin and lanky and gaunt figure hidden in the eternal black turtleneck......It was a little bit strange, though, someone who has such high esthetic standard like Steve Jobs insisted wearing an outfit so unflattering for a person of terminal disease.
Someone said turtleneck has been out of fashion for quite a while, at least for men. Perhaps partly due to Steve Jobs. The visual association and reminder must be painful.
He asked the Japanese designer Issey Miyake design and make hundreds of mock turtleneck sweat shirts and sweaters for him, all in black, "which can last me for the rest of my life". And then he wore them, with jeans, and white sneakers, everywhere.
It was not always a beautiful sight, however, particularly when he was hit by cancer: the increasingly thin and lanky and gaunt figure hidden in the eternal black turtleneck......It was a little bit strange, though, someone who has such high esthetic standard like Steve Jobs insisted wearing an outfit so unflattering for a person of terminal disease.
Someone said turtleneck has been out of fashion for quite a while, at least for men. Perhaps partly due to Steve Jobs. The visual association and reminder must be painful.
“The turtleneck was the boldest of all the affronts to the status quo. It was the picture of masculine poise and arrogance, redolent of athletes, sportsmen, even U-boat commanders. The simplicity of its design made neckties seem fussy and superfluous by comparison"
- John Berendt for Esquire Magazine
Turtleneck and Icons
Turtlenecks are the most comfortable garment you can wear. They move with the body, and they’re flattering too, because they accentuate the face and elongate the figure. They make life so easy: you can wear a turtleneck to work and then afterwards throw on a jacket, and it becomes very dressy. You can go anywhere you like.
- Roy Halston
The black turtleneck
Turtleneck comes in different forms, of various weight and knit patterns, and it comes in all colors, from white to red, navy to pink, grey to camel, but nothing can compare with a black turtleneck. Like a little black dress, a black turtleneck seems so much more special, mor sophisticated, and in many cases, the most elegant.
