Halston

It (designing) has everything. It’s difficult, it’s hard work, it’s harassing, it’s full of drama. I don’t quite know where I got my ambition but I have it. I go into things with an optimistic point of view and I look at it straight and try to make it the biggest and best success I can. But the thing that holds my interest always is MORE; what’s next, what’s going to be the next exciting thing.”

- Roy Halston

THE PROFILE

roy halston

Roy Halston was originally milliner who acquired national fame when he designed the famous pillbox hat for Jackie Kennedy in 1961 when she was first lady.

After hats were out of fashion, Halston started to design clothes and he likes to use soft fabric to create simple but sophisticated silouhettes.

the chronicle

1950s early years

As a boy, Halston had developed an interest in sewing from his grandmother, and he began creating hats and altering clothes for his mother and sister.

In 1952, Halston moved to Chicago, where he enrolled in a night course at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and he worked as a window dresser. In 1953, he opened his own hat business. His first customer was radio actress and comedian Fran Allison. Halston's hats were also bought by Kim Novak, Gloria Swanson, Deborah Kerr and Hedda Hopper.
Halston's first big break came when the Chicago Daily News ran a brief story on his fashionable hats. In 1957, he opened his first shop, the Boulevard Salon, on North Michigan Avenue. It was at this point that he began to use his middle name as his professional moniker.

Halston moved to New York City in late 1957, first working for milliner Lilly Daché. Within a year, he had been named the co-designer at Daché, became acquainted with several fashion editors and publishers, and left Daché's studio to become head milliner for department store Bergdorf Goodman in their customer milliner salon.

1960s: Jackie Kennedy`s pillbox hat and Madison Avenue

Halston achieved great fame after designing the pillbox hat Jacqueline Kennedy wore to her husband's presidential inauguration in 1961, and when hats fell out of fashion, Halston moved on to designing clothing, made possible by Estelle Marsh, a millionaire from Amarillo, Texas.

Halston opened his first boutique on Madison Avenue in 1968. One of his clients Mary Wells Lawrence was married to the CEO of Braniff International Airways, Harding Lawrence and would be instrumental in bringing Halston to Braniff in 1976 to design Braniff's hostess, pilot, ticket agent, and ground personnel uniforms.

Halston launched his first ready-to-wear line, Halston Limited, in 1969.

Halston's design was usually simple and minimalist but sophisticated, glamorous but also comfortable at the same time. Halston like to use soft, luxurious fabric like silk and chiffon. He later told Vogue that he got rid of "...all of the extra details that didn't work—bows that didn't tie, buttons that didn't button, zippers that didn't zip, wrap dresses that didn't wrap. I've always hated things that don't work."

Another design characteristics of Halston was his use of bias. He believed that clothes cut and sewn from the bias of every fabric can develop a sexy, polished image. In past history, people had the interpretation that shows a woman's body shape was mainly through the curve of the clothing. Halston changed the fitted silhouette and created a new definition of showing the female body shape by allowing the natural flow of the fabric to create its own shape. Halston said "Pants give women the freedom to move around they've never had before. They don't have to worry about getting into low furniture or low sportscars. Pants will be with us for many years to come—probably forever if you can make that statement in fashion." In the 1970s, his ultra-suede suit was a big hit. He brought in functionality into fashion. He designed the Ultrasuede shirtdress and re-introduced pants for women. The shirtdress was interpreted as an elongated men's shirt. He also included elements of sportswear and combined it into women's clothing, merging features from both women wear and menswear together.

197Os: Licening and uniforms

Throughout the 1970s, Halston had expanded his line to include menswear, luggage, handbags, lingerie and bedding. Vogue later noted that Halston was responsible for popularizing caftans, which he made for Jacqueline Kennedy; matte jersey halter top dresses; and polyurethane in American fashion.

In 1977, Haslton created uniforms for Braniff International Airways`s flight attendants. They were muted brown uniforms with a distinctive "H" logo. Halston created interchangeable separates in shades of bone, tan and taupe which the airline extended to the seat covers, using brown Argentinean leather. The entire scheme was dubbed "Ultra Touch" by the airline in reference to Halston's ultrasuede designs, and was extremely evocative of the late 1970s.

1980s: J.C. Penny

In 1983, Halston signed a six-year licensing deal, worth a reported $1 billion, with the retail chain J. C. Penney. The line, called Halston III, consisted of affordable clothing, accessories, cosmetics and perfumes ranging from $24 to $200. At the time, the move was considered.

The Halston III line for J. C. Penney was poorly received and was eventually discontinued; however, this would pave the way for other high-end designers to sell their lines at stores of varying price levels in the future.

1990 Death

In 1988, Halston tested positive for HIV.After his health began to fail, he moved to San Francisco, where he was cared for by his family.

On March 26, 1990, he died of Kaposi's sarcoma, an AIDS-defining illness, at the Pacific Presbyterian Medical Center in San Francisco.

“I hear a lot of things about myself. I hear that I'm jet-set and this and that, and I'm really not. I live a very quiet life.”

-Roy Halston

the designing style

Colors:

Halston’s favorite color is red.

Fabrics:

Halston likes to use soft fabric like silk(in particular silk chiffon), jersey and cashmere, that are soft to both body and eyes, but he also likes to use larme to express the sense of glory.

Cashmere