Orry-Kelly (31 December 1897 – 27 February 1964) was born as Orry George Kelly in the New South Wales coastal town of Kiama, about 80 miles south of Sydney, in 1897, and he was sent to Sydney at age 17 to study banking, where he developed his interest in theatre.
In 1923, he went to New York(where he met his then room mate as well as claimed lover Cary Grant), hoping to become actor but instead working for odd jobs with his drawing talent, until finding job to dress Broadway actresses including Katharine Hepburn.
In 1932 Kelly started working in Hollywood as costume designer of Warner Brothers, and in the following 30 years Kelly worked in more than 280 films, became one of the most important costume designers of Golden Hollywood, alongside Travis Banton and Gilbert Adrian, winning 3 Oscars(1951: An American in Paris; 1957: Les girls; 1959: Some like it hot) and was nominated for another film in which he designed the costumes: Gympsy(1962). Although his name was most closely associated with stars like Kay Francis, Dolores del Rio and Bette Davis, for whom he created costumes in more than 30 films, many of Kelly's most iconic designs for Hollywood are those he created for next generation of Hollywood stars like Ingrid Bergman, Ava Gardner, Marilyn Monroe and Natalie Wood, and were created after he did not work for Warner Brothers anymore.
For Ingrid Bergman in film Casablanca, 1942
For Ava Gardner in film One touch of Venus, 1948
For Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951)
For Marilyn Monroe in film Some like it hot, 1959
ORRY-KELLY: WOMEN HE’S UNDRESSED
In 1928, British painter Meredith Frampton RA (17 March 1894 – 16 September 1984) painted the portrait of a woman in white dress, which features bateau neckline, short sleeves, and column silhouette.
This painting is now in the Tate Museum in London and it has been described as the "epitome of modern classicism".
Meredith Frampton is very meticulous with the outfits of Marguerite Kelsey, both the dress and the red ballet shoes are chosen and supplied by the painter himself.
And it is not the first time Meredith Frampton chooses the outfits of his model.
In 1935, when he painted Portrait of A Young Woman, Frampton not only had several of the objects in the painting made specially for the painting, his mother also made the dress worn by the model, Margaret Austin-Jones, which is a floor-length silk dress in ivory color with a pale pink wrap top.
Meredith Frampton was born in the St John's Wood area of London and was the only child of the sculptor Sir George Frampton and his wife, the painter Christabel Cockerell. Frampton was educated at Westminster School and went on to attend the Royal Academy Schools between 1912 and 1915, where he won both a first prize and a silver medal.
During the First World War, Frampton served in the British Army, and after the war Frampton resumed his artistic career and established himself as among the most highly regarded of British painters during the period. Frampton painted portraits of the Duke of York, who was to become King George VI, academics and scientists, and a series of full length portraits of women from fashionable society.
In 1937 Marguerite Kelsey modeled again for Frampton and as a result he painted her with cards as "A Game of Patience".
She spent two decades in New Zealand and return to the United Kingdom in the early 1980s suffering with arthritis.
Besides Meredith Frampton, she also appears in notable works of art of other artists like Dame Laura Knight and Peter Edwards. And in 1994 Peter Edwards won the BP Portrait Award with Portrait of an Artist's Model (of Marguerite Kelsey) who was then in her eighties.
Kelsey died in High Wycombe in 1995.
In the 1950s, as his eyesight worsened, Frampton and his wife moved to a hilltop house overlooking Monkton Deverill in Wiltshire. Frampton had designed the property in the 1930s and for the rest of his life he worked on improving and maintaining this house, which included his own furniture and clock designs.
For many years Frampton's art was rarely shown in public and he was largely forgotten. However, he lived to see his retrospective at the Tate in 1982. It was his first one-man show and greatly restored his standing. Now Frampton's work is on display at the National Portrait Gallery, Tate Gallery and Imperial War Museum.
The coat dress
On 5 July 2015, at St Mary Magdalene Church on the Queen’s Sandringham Estate, The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, held a small ceremony for christening their daughter Princess Charlotte, only immediate family, godparents and their spouses were invited.
For the ceremony, Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton wore a cream white coat dress with wing collar custom made for her by Alexander Mcqueen.
The bespoke coat dress is made of silk wool blend, featuring a fit-and-flare silhouette with inverted back pleat, a peaked shoulder and a very unusual wide wing lapel.
The detail of the coat dress
Worn When and where
Time: 5 July 2015
Event: Christening of Princess Charlotte, St Mary Magdalene Church on the Queen’s Sandringham Estate.
Style with: Hat by Jane Taylor millinery; Shoes by Russell and Bromley Fifth Avenue.
Time: June 2016
Event: Trooping the color, London
Style with: Hat by Philip Treacy
Time: 30 July 2017
Event: Ceremonies commemorating the centenary of the Battle of Passchendaele, Belgium
Style with: Hat from John Lock and Company. designed by Sylvia Fletcher, Marisabell style.
The coat dress in primrose yellow with cuff buttons
Time: 19 May 2018
Event: Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding, St. George’s Chapel in Windsor.
Accessories: Hat by Philip Treacy; shoes by Jimmy Choo
Is it still the same dress or a new one?
To the eyes of many, the coat dress wore by Kate Middleton for the royal wedding is exactly the same as the one she wore for Charlotte's Christening and other events, because they do look identical, even the seaming and the unusual darting details under the collar look just the same.
The only noted difference seems that the coat dress Kate wore for the royal wedding features four buttons on the cuff, as seen in the following pictures.
While the coat dress she wore for Charlotte's christening does not have.
And according to Royal Palace, The Duchess's outfit for the Royal Wedding is a "primrose yellow wool silk coat by Alexander McQueen". In this official photo of the royal wedding taking indoors, the color of the coat dress of Kate Middleton does look yellow against the color of Charlote's dress.
Another indoor photo showing the coat dress more clearly in the yellow tone, and from the way how Kate styled her dress with a hat with yellow flowers also hints she was matching it with the color of her dress.
Here is a look at how Kate Middleton wears this very elegant coat dress differently.
From left to right: Kate Middleton in wing collar coat dress by Alexander Mcqueen for Charlotte Christening 2015, Trooping the Color 2016, Commemorations ceremony Belgium 2017 and Prince Harry and Meghan Markle wedding 2018 respectively
The coat dress in pale green with 3 quarter sleeves
In July 2018, less than two months after, when The Duchess of Cambridge attended RAF centenary Service, she wore another coat dress by Alexander McQueen with the same silhouette and tailoring details, except the shorter sleeves, and in a pale green color.
Audrey Hepburn movie costume white lace midi dress with shawl collar in film Roman Holiday (1953) then restyled into her 1954 Oscar dress by Givenchy
In 1952, the then young and unknown Audrey Hepburn was cast in Paramount film Roman Holiday directed by William Wyler as Princess Ann, Edith Head the head costume designer of Paramount designed her wardrobe.
The Roman Holiday farewell dress
In the closing scene of the movie, Audrey Hepburn as Princess Ann held a press conference where she would meet Joe, the reporter she fell in love for the last time. In that scene, she wore a white lace midi dress with a shawl collar, wrap-over bodice and fitted waist, styled with a pearl choker and a Juliet style hat.
From the farewell dress to Oscar dress
In 1954, at the 26th Annual Academy Awards, Audrey Hepburn wore a sleeveless floral lace dress with a belt. It is actually restyled from the Roman Holiday Farewell lace dress by Hubert de Givenchy, by then Audrey Hepburn's favorite designer.
Audrey Hepburn won the best actress wearing the dainty lace dress.
Here is a video clip of Audrey Hepburn accepted her her Oscar award in the lace dress.
In 2011, on November 29, the lace dress was sold at auction for £84,000 by Kerry Taylor, a British auction house.
Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and midi circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
In 1952, the then young and unknown Audrey Hepburn was cast in Paramount film Roman Holiday directed by William Wyler as Princess Ann, Edith Head the head costume designer of Paramount designed her wardrobe.
And among all of her outfits, the white shirt and colored circle skirt ensemble is most iconic outfit Audrey wore in the movie.
It's a simple button down long sleeve shirt with undefined shoulder and a separate jabot, and a ankle long circle skirt with belt.
As Edith Head explained:
"You see, she's supposed to be a princess disguised as an ordinary girl on the streets of Rome. So we made her a simple costume, so she wouldn't look different."
The white shirt
In the movie, Audrey Hepburn first wore the ensemble with the shirt sleeves buttoned as she left the embassy palace.
As the movie progresses, Audrey Hepburn would wear the shirt with the sleeves rolled up.
Edith Head obviously endorsed Audrey wearing the shirt that way even during the screen test: "In the picture, she had to look casual, informal and we felt, due to the heat of Rome in summer, a girl would really do this sort of thing.".
Edith Head's more thoughts on designing Audrey Hepburn's this ensemble can be seen in the following video:
During Audrey's test, Edith Head has also designed another two alternative jersey blouses for her, one with buttons, another slip on, but later the white shirt was chosen, perhaps as a Princess, the two jersey blouses could be too figure hugging.
The circle skirt
The length and silouette
The skirt is a circle skirt hitting below Audrey's mid calf, looking conservative and demure. It seems there exists an alternative skirt which Audrey Hepburn wore only for her screen test, one that is a little bit shorter with more volume(Or perhaps she is wearing some petticoat underneath?).
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday? Perhaps only Edith Head can answer this question by now. In some pictures, the color is sky blue, but then in another, it looks like a beige. And the doll makers seem like the beige version, and they all have Audrey Hepburn like doll wearing the beige skirt.
Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957/Ariane(directed by Billy Wilder)
In 1957, Audrey Hepburn starred with Gary Cooper in the film Love in the afternoon(in French: Ariane) directed by Billy Wilder. By now, Hubert de Givenchy has become Audrey Hepburn's default designer, and in this film, Givenchy has made a few black dresses for Audrey Hepburn's personage Ariane, a young innocent music student. The silhouettes are all classic 50s style with wide skirts, but Givenchy use some designing details to indicate her identity as well as her transformation of moods as the film progresses.
For more details about this black dress, visit roger-viollet.fr
One thing is for sure: Masks are everywhere, from the most protective KN95 masks to the flimsy blue surgical masks to all different handmade cloth masks, we are wearing them.
On 4 May 2020, Italy ended its 2 month confinement (the longest so far in Europe) and started partial deconfinement - although people are allowed to finally go out, they almost have nowhere to go: the bars and restaurants are still closed, the cinema and theatre are still not open...and people have to wear masks on public transport, in stores or even just on the streets if it's difficult to maintain safe social distance(How to know?)
Besides Italy, more than 50 countries including Spain and Portugal have made wearing mask compulsory (except noticeably UK) to slowdown the spread of coronavirus.
WHO may still think it's unnecessary for people with no symptoms to wear masks, but if one look at how the coronavirus has been behaving in Asian countries like China, Hongkong, South Corea where people are used to wearing mask even before the outbreak, and European countries where almost nobody even do, it's not hard to make your own decision: Wearing masks definitely helps, although we do not how much.
Scientists in different countries have agreed that it will be at least one year to 18 months before any vaccine can be developed, and a new study reveals that the coronavirus has mutated and appears to be more contagious now, which means the vaccine may not be as effective as we hope when it's finally available.
So we'll be wearing masks when we are not home in the foreseeable future, whether we like it or not.
And besides, if we make enough effort, the masks not only can protect us, it can also decorate us, like other accessories such as sunglasses, scarves, even giving us a sense of mystery, when we walk around with mask that blend in with our outfits.
Fashion changes because we are tired of what we wear, but also because something in our life style has changed. The accessories like hats and gloves were out of fashion because we did not need to wear them anymore.
Now, will face masks become fashion because we need them, or because we are used to wearing them after we do not need them?
Kate Middleton blue silk jersey knit wrap dress by Issa London for her engagement announcement with Prince William
On 16th November 2010, Prince William and Kate Middleton announced their engagement to the media, and Kate chose a blue wrap dress by Issa London for the photocall at St James’s Palace.
We are thrilled with the engagement news and I’m very happy that she has chosen to wear Issa today. She is a very pretty and lovely girl.”
Kate’s dark blue Issa wrap dress is knee-length with a v-neckline and bracelet-length sleeves. The dress is wrapped at the waist with a belt and the skirt falls in soft pleats. She paired the dress with a pair of suede pumps and her blue engagement ring which used to belong to Princess Diana, mother of Prince William.
The unfortunate Kate effect:
After Kate wore the now iconic blue wrap dress, it was sold out in 24 hours. Daniella Helayel, the owner of the company only had a small team and found it difficult to keep up with the demand, plus the small company was already on the verge of a financial crisis and the bank refused to help.
Helayel's friend, Camilla Al-Fayed bought a 51% stake in her company, but in 2013, Helayel left the company due to the increasing stress. Two years later, in 2015, Issa London closed its doors for good.
In 2016 Daniella Helayel made a 14-piece collection for Monsoon, which also included a similar Kate-inspired wrap dress.
In spring 2017, British luxury department store House of Fraser acquired Issa London. They relaunched the brand exclusively in August of the same year. The first collection draws inspiration from Issa London’s archive, including a copy of Kate Middleton's wrap dress. But the new dress is made of much affordable viscose which sells for only £99, comparing with the original Issa dress made of silk jersey selling at £430.
The classic Issa wrap dress in royal blue is the ultimate wardrobe staple, taking you from day to evening with ease. This ultra flattering shape with V cross front neckline and long sleeves is belted at the waist and sits just above the knee. Fabricated in the brands’ signature silk jersey.
Kate Middleton, The Duchess of Cambridge wore blue Jenny Packham gown to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Place2be
On 9 March 2020, Kate Middleton, The Duchess of Cambridge hosted a gala at Buckingham Palace, London to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Place2be, an organisation providing emotional support for children with mental difficulties, of which The Duchess is patron.
For the occation, The Duchess wore a bespoke royal blue Jenny Packham gown, which she had worn previously at a Bollywood Gala in Mumbai, India in 2016.
This time, she matched the embellished gown with beaded clutch and sparkling Jimmy Choo pumps.
Catherine Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge attended Commonwealth Day 2020 at London's Westminster Abbey alongside her husband Prince William and fellow royals. The duchess wore a bespoke burgundy Catherine Walker military coat with matching burgundy velvet gloves and suede pointed-toe heels, but the most striking accessories is her ruby red fascinator featuring three scarlet Tudor roses and burgundy velvet leaves.
Similar coat from Catherine Walker
Kate Middleton's 7 most elegant Alexander McQueen outfits after her royal marriage to Prince Williams
On 29 April 2011, Kate Middleton married Prince Williams in a white v neck lace wedding dress designed by Sarah Burton, creative director of the British luxury fashion house.
Since then, as Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton has worn numerous Alexander Mcqueen outfit, including dresses and coats for her public engagements. Here we shared with you 7 most elegant outfits by the designer worn by the Duchess over the decade.
No.1:Alexander McQueen Sailor collar cable knit dress
Time: North American tour, 2011
Occation: Kate and William visited Charlottetown, the capital city of Prince of Edward Island.
Style: Long sleeve cable knit dress of nautical-theme with sailor collar and drop waist.
The dress fabric has a subtle repeating cable-knit stripe motif and dark trim on the hem, collar and at the waist. It’s a little nautical, a little 1920’s bourgeois tennis court."
No.2:Alexander McQueen Lilac grecian gown
Time: North American tour, 2011
Occation: On the third day, the Kate Middleton and William attended a black-tie event held by BAFTA (the British Academy of Film and Television Arts) at the Belasco Theater in Los Angeles.
Style: Lilac grecian sleeveless style floor length gown
Alexander McQueen’s gorgeous Grecian floor length gown will leave you feeling like a modern day Aphrodite. Cinch in the cascading layers with McQueen’s signature fuchsia belt and adorn yourself in gilded extras for a show stopping finish."
No.3:Alexander McQueen Scoop neck dress with cut-out skirt
Time: June 3rd 2012
Occation: Queen Elizabeth II Diamond Jubilee, River Thames, London
Style: Long sleeve scoop neck false two piece with plaided skirt
No.4:Alexander McQueen Corn flower blue coat with buckles
Time: 6 June 2014
Occation: William and Kate joined several members of the British Royal Family in Normandy, France to take part in events commemorating the 70th anniversary of D-Day.
Style: Cornflower blue coat with buckle
No.5:Alexander McQueen Light grey funnel neck coat
Time: 2014 Royal Tour Australia
Occation: William and Kate attended an Easter Sunday church service at St Andrew’s Cathedral, Sidney, Australia
Style: Alexander McQueen Light grey funnel neck coat
No.6:Alexander McQueen cream coat dress with oversized collar and back inverted pleat
Time: July 5th, 2015
Occation: Princess Charlotte’s christening at St Mary Magdalene Church on the Queen’s Sandringham Estate.
Style: Cream coat dress with oversized collar and back inverted pleat
No.7:Alexander McQueen whit lace dress with peplum skirt
Time: 20 June 2017
Occation: Opening Day of Royal Ascot.
Style: White lace mini dress made from a cotton and silk blend fabric featuring a pleated peplum skirt, three-quarter length sleeves and a flared skirt.
Turtleneck, color grey, loose fit shirts, and very restrained smile. These words could all describe s French actor and director Louis Garrel.
Louis Garrel is the son of French director Philippe Garrel and he has been acting in his father's film since 6 year old. In 2003, the Italian director Bernardo Bertolucci's put him in Innocents - The Dreamers, a decadent and sensual film, making him famous. Since then, he has made name for himself both on screen and off screen, including the love affair with Valeria Bruni-Tedeschi, sister of ex French first lady, Carla Bruni.
Louis Garrel is an audacious man, not only because he dared to feel in love with a woman almost 20 year older than him, or had the courage to walk behind the camera, becoming a director. He is brave to always be himself.
His style can be described in one phrase: quintessential Paris intellectual. He likes sombre colours, mostly black, some times navy blue, or dark grey, never with embellishments; and black turtleneck and white shirt and occasional scarves in solid colours, his wardrobe is simple and classic. He also likes to wear dark on dark: black on black or navy on navy. Occasionally, though, he looks a bit more like a monk of Franciscan order when he goes too far, especially when his black shirt is all buttoned up.
"the Left Bank's most beautiful resident ... after each picture her enigmatic beauty lingered" in the memories of her audience.
Anouk Aimée in headscarf:
Anouk Aimée in sweater
Anouk Aimée in dress
Anouk Aimée in ensemble
Holding a cigarette:
“The most important thing is that the suit be well cut. Then it needn’t be particularly new or even particularly well pressed. It will always hang properly. I make my suits last for years. The other day, I took one that’s, oh, eight years old, in to be altered – have the lapels narrowed and the trousers taken in. I go to Stovel & Mason in Old Burlington Street where I’ve trained the cutter to what I like, and he never commits the classic fault of London tailors – leaving too much fullness in the seat of the trousers.
When it comes to combinations of patters and colors, my wife tells me that I run to reds and blues, but I assure you that it’s not conscious. I do like blues, and yellows, but not beige or tan. Combining the patters and colors is simply a question of getting a contrast. With a striped suit I wouldn’t wear a striped shirt. With a striped shirt I would wear a plain woven tie in a much deeper or brighter color. The thing to keep in mind really is that the shirt, tie, and suit can’t look all the same in color or scale of pattern, and, of course, not to be self-conscious about combination. The one thing that I am especially conscious of is combining ties and pocket handkerchiefs. I avoid matching them at all costs. The pocket handkerchief should be colored and patterned, but not matching the tie. Better to have it related, or even entirely unrelated, so long as they don’t look wrong together.”
For sports things, I go to Huntsman in Savile Row, but in any case I’m rather conservative about suits. Being an actor, I plan my clothes rather more. No one in public life can afford to overstep. One has a responsibility, and before I get anything new, I brood about it, try it out on my wife and daughters, and perhaps on someone in the Club. Once the suit is settled, then the only thing is shoes and linen. I usually wear proper shoes except when I’m traveling, then I wear these things [well-polished tan loafers] because they’re so comfortable on planes. Otherwise, I go to Maxwell’s in Dover Street, and I always have shoes with elastic sides. I’ve been having them made since shortly after the war, and I don’t even own any lace-ups any longer.
Queen Letizia wore Felipe Varela midnight blue velvet gown for 2020 New Year reception in Royal Palace Madrid
On January 5, 2020, King Felipe VI and Queen Letizia of Spain hosted the traditional and annual New Year reception for the Diplomatic Corps accredited in Spain at Madrid Royal Palace. The reception took place in the Throne Room of Madrid Royal Palace.
Queen Letizia wore a blue velvet floor length gown with peter-pan collar by Spanish couturier Felipe Varela, Letizia's favorite designer, who made most of her formal outfits.
prérogative particulière utilisée par les reines, princesses et duchesses catholiques lors des audiences avec le pape, au cours desquelles elles son autorisées à porter vêtements et mantilles blancs, habituellement réservés au souverain pontife.
(The privilege of the white is a special prerogative used by Catholic queens, princesses and duchesses during audiences with the Pope, during which they are authorized to wear white clothes and mantles, usually reserved for the sovereign pontiff.)
Actuellement, les dames catholiques éligibles à ce privilège sont les suivantes:
Ce privilège n’est pas utilisé par les reines à chaque rencontre avec le pape, mais davantage pour les occasions les plus solennelles. Ainsi, Marina, « princesse de Naples » a utilisé le privilège du blanc lors d’une messe en 2003 célébrant l’anniversaire de Jean-Paul II.
(Currently, the Catholic royal women eligible for this privilege are the following:
This privilege is not used by the queens at each audience with the pope, but for the most solemn occasions. Thus, Marina, Princess of Naples used the privilege of white during a mass in 2003 celebrating the birthday of John Paul II.
Le 12 janvier 2013, la princesse Charlène de Monaco a été exceptionnellement autorisée à utiliser ce privilège lors d’une audience avec le pape Benoît XVI.
(On 1 January 2013, the princess Charlene of Monaco has been exceptionally allowed to use this privilège for her audience with His holiness Pope Benedict XVI).
Le bureau de presse du Vatican a, par la suite, indiqué que « conformément au protocole prescrit par le Vatican concernant les souverains catholiques, la princesse [Charlène de Monaco] a été autorisée à s’habiller en blanc »
(The Vatican Office states that “in accordance with prescribed ceremonial of the Vatican for Catholic sovereigns, the princess was allowed to dress in white…”)
For her audience, the Princess of Monaco wore a chic crepe jacket and white driving gloves with her white mantilla and nude heels, looking regal, elegant and sublime.
Apart from the 7 Catholic royal women who enjoy “le privilège du blanc”, all other female are required to wear black while meeting with the Pope, including other royal women and the First Ladies.
When you buy a Hermès silk scarf, a Max Mara silk dress, a Gucci silk blouse or a Valentino silk gown, You will only be told it is made of 100% silk. But what type of silk? Why are they look so different?
Silk is like a mysterious woman with many faces, it comes in many textures, weight, hand feel and drapes, and thus bear different names, such as silk twill, silk charmeuse, silk crêpe de Chine, silk georgette, silk chiffon, silk dupioni, etc.
Twill, one of red basic textiles weaves, produced with a diagonal rib, ridge, or wale. In regular twill the diagonal line is repeated regularly, usually running upward left to right at 45 degree.
The weave can be varied in many ways, for example, by changing the direction of the twill line or its angle.
Silk twill is lightweight, but strong. The most obvious example of silk twill is a silk scarf of Hermès.
Since Hermès produced its first square shaped silk scarf in 1937 designed by Robert Dumas, it has become the symbol of luxury silk scarf, and silk twill has become the standard material for almost all luxury scarf brands, always finished with hand-rolled edges.
Charmeuse is a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave, in which the threads cross over four or more of the backing (weft) threads. These float threads give the front of the fabric a smooth, reflective finish, whereas the back has a dull finish.
Charmeuse differs from plain satin in that charmeuse has a different ratio of float (face) threads.
Luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited for scarves, lingerie, flowing evening gowns, and draped blouses. Bridal gowns sometimes use charmeuse; however, the fabric does not hold shape well, so it is not used for full, flared skirts; the charmeuse tends to cling and hang against the body. It is best suited to more fluid, slinky bias cut, and drapes well.
Its uses in menswear includes the lining of jackets and slacks, handkerchiefs, ties, and underwear such as charmeuse boxer shorts.
Silk crepe de chine
Silk crepe de chine literally means crepe (fabric) of China, it is a lightweight plain-weave fabric, with twisted fibres which give crêpe its distinctive ‘pebbly’ look and feel, it comes in many different varieties – crêpe de Chine, Moroccan crêpe and crêpe georgette and can be used for scarves, dresses, suits and evening wear.
Sometimes known as dupion or douppioni,is a plain weave crisp silk fabric which is created with the threads of two different silk worms. When two worms spin their cocoons together, the fingers get tangled up; these naturally tangled fivers are then used together to make the silk thread. The thread is rougher than regular silk, and contains bumps and irregularities where the divers from the two cocoons are combined. It also creates a tightly-woven yardage with a highly lustrous surface.
It is similar to shantung, but slightly thicker, heavier, and with a greater slub (That runs horizontally across the fabric) count, which is part of Dupioni’s character, not defects.
Dupioni tends to resist wrinkles compared with other types of silk, and it also takes creases very well to give the dress made with Dupioni crisp and formal appearance. Besides, it is usually reversible so it is possible to use it making a coat or dress to be worn on both sides,
Dupioni can be woven into plaid and striped patterns; floral or other intrinsic. Dupioni may be also embroidered in any manner desired.
Along with shantung, dupioni is popular in bridal and other formal wear, it is also perfect for dresses, blouses, jackets, skirts as well as handbags.
Varanasi, India is one of the major manufacturers of Dupion. Weavers of nearby villagers, mainly of the Ansari community, have been producing fabrics for generations. The major demands of the Indian wedding industry are met by this city.
Silk Georgette (from crêpe Georgette) is a sheer, lightweight, dull-finished crêpe fabricnamed after the early 20th century French dress maker and milliner Georgette de la Plante.
Georgette is made with highly twisted yarns. Its characteristic crinkly surface is created by alternating S- and Z-twist yarns in both warp and weft. It is springier and less lustrous than the closely related chiffon, which is also sheer and flowing.
Georgette is made in solid colors and prints and is used for bridal gowns, blouses, dresses, evening gowns, saris, sacrves, as well as jackets and shirts, usually for women.
Unlike finer silks such as crepe de chine or chiffon, Georgette is unusually strong and holds up well to varied wear. So it is strong enough embroidering and beading.
"You must believe me when I tell you that I have found it impossible to carry out the heavy burden of responsibility and discharge my duty as King as I would wish to do, without the support of the woman I love"
Thus said former King Edward VIII now Prince of Wales on 11 Dec. 1936 through radio, hours after he gave his throne to his younger brother George VII, ending his reign as the King of England publicly, but started another reign as king of style, which still continues, 83 year after he gave his famous abdication speech.
Edward VIII (Edward Albert Christian George Andrew Patrick David was born on 23 June 1894, and he called himself David, the last of his long seven names.
When he was still Prince of Wales, David already showed the sign of a rebel. He was not on time for meetings, even if it was meetings with his father King George V; he wanted to fight as a soldier when the First World War broke; he was the first royal to ever learn flying; he was always involved with married women and hated the idea of being married; he liked to dress as he saw fit instead of following the Royal protocol.
Decades later, in his memoir, Duke of Windsor described how one morning, still Prince of Wales, walked into the breakfast-room, late as usual, wearing a pair of turned up trousers, his father the King looked at him with disgust, and asked: "Is it raining outside?"
And then Prince Edward fell in love with Wallis Simpson, a married American woman who was once divorced.
Even when he became king, Edward VIII continued being a free spirit. He wanted to be exposed to and close to his subjects, including the humble mine workers; he wanted his left profile on the coinage instead of the right one (According to the royal protocol, the succeeding King's profile should be opposite to that of the previous King).
And he wanted to marry Wallis Simpson, now twice divorced, with both husbands alive.
Thus the "Constitutional Crisis", because the government did not want a divorcee and commoner with suspicious and unflattering past to be Queen of England, never. But King Edward VIII wanted to marry Wallis Simpson at any price.
After all attempted persuasions and negotiations between the two parts failed, King Edward VIII made the decision that shocked the world and history: He would gave up his throne to marry the woman he love, and abdicate, ending his 325 days of reign, the shortest in British history.
Within hours after his abdication speech, the former king and emperior, now just Prince of Wales again, was requested to leave his native land, once his kingdom, and was never allowed to go back, except for his mother Queen Mary’s funeral.
In March 1937, Prince Edward was officially titled His Royal Highness Duke Of Windsor, and 3 month later, the Duke finally married Wallis Simpson, now Your Grace Duchess of Windsor.
And for the rest of life, Duke of Windsor lived in permanent exile with his wife in France, apart from 5 year in Panama when he was appointed Governor there.
Some historians call his life empty, frivolous and meaningless, but for fashion history and fashionistas, it could be a blessing in the curse. As Duke of Windsor, he became a style icon, or perhaps the style icon of 20th century for men.
Hollywood actor and dancer Fred Astaire(1899-1987), who was born just a few years later than Duke of Windsor and shared the Duke's physique copied the latter's style enthusiastically and publicly, and became a style icon in his own sake.
Then for Ralph Lauren, the man who created a fashion empire by recreating his own version of New England, Duke of Windsor was his ultimate inspiration for his menswear. Even Giorgio Armani, the Italian who created the "Power Suit" for women with extremely wide shoulder, did something completely different for man's jackets: he made them unstructured and even unlined, just like Duke of Windsor did decades ago with his own jackets.
Even today, the best suit brands in the world, like the ultimate Neapolitan suit maker Kiton, almost always has some Windsor like soft suit in their collection.
The world at large was fascinated by Duke of Windsor and his story, a man who had everything but gave up all for love.
In October 1969, three year before his death, Duke of Windsor agreed to give an interview together with Duchess of Windsor conducted by Kenneth Harris for BBC, and when the interview was broadcasted in 1970, it was watched by 12 million people.
And the theatrical world has never stop fantasizing and dramatizing the life of Duke of Windsor on both small and big screen. Time and again, some creative minds would go back to him, telling his story with a new perception and new cast, so this extraordinary man, born and raised as Prince, reigned as King, and died a Duke, will stay forever in our collective consciousness.
But even without all these creative endeavors, Duke of Windsor has become part of our cultural heritage, at least in the world of fashion. The Prince of Wales Checks and Duke of Windsor Knot(which has nothing to do with him), the soft-collared shirt and soft-shouldered jacket, the disappearance of top hat and persistence of turned-up trousers, all remind us the existence of a man who loves and understands style.
In the same 1970 BBC interview, Kenneth Harris asked Duchess of Windsor what she thought about Duke of Windsor, she said: "He is ahead of his time."
Duke of Windsor died on 28 May 1972 at his home in Paris France of throat cancer.
And so much has changed after his death.
On 9 April 2005, when another Prince of Wales, Duke of Windsor's great nephew Prince Charles married Camilla the divorcee, the Archbishop of Canterbury endorsed the marriage, and Queen Elizabeth II, mother of Prince Charles and niece of Duke of Windsor, blessed the reunion of "My son" and " the woman he loves."
And on 19 May 2018, Prince Harry married Meghan Markle, an American commoner and divorcee, just like Wallis Simpson had been more than eight decades ago.
And yet, something has never changed.
In 1997, when Princess Diana was chased to death by the crazy French paparazzi in a Paris tunnel, it was like a replay of another group of French paparazzi hounding down Wallis Simpson in south France when she was trying to escape the British press, 50 years earlier.
And Duke of Windsor's hat maker The Lock & Co. is now making hats for other Dukes of his family: Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh and Prince Charles, Duke of Cornwall, as well as the newer generation like Prince Williams, Prince Harry, Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle.
What will change and what will not from now on?
Let's just wish the legend and style influence of Duke of Windsor, an extraordinary man who knows what he wants and has the courage to pursue it regardless what others would think, will live on as long as The Lock & Co. , the oldest hat maker in the world, continues to make hats.
On 22 May 2004, Letizia Ortiz, a famous news anchor of Spanish Television, married Felipe, Prince of Asturias, thus becoming Princess of Asturias, and ten years later, in 2014, When her husband became Felipe VI, King of Spain, Letizia became queen of Spain. In the fifteen years after she became royal, Letizia has been crowned as one of the style queen in Europe, here we share with you some of her most elegant outfits over the years.
Since becoming Duchess of Cambridge on 2011, Kate Middleton has appeared in public in outlets outfits, sometimes beautiful, sometimes cheerful, not always elegant, but almost always well coordinated. We believe the following are some of her most elegant outfits over the years as Duchess of Cambridge.
Coat and coat dress
Red is the color of Spain, and also the favourite color of Spanish Queen Letizia who has worn red in different hues over the years, from coat, to dress to ensembles, and here we've selected some of her best looks in red which can inspire your Christmas wardrobe.
Red evening coat
The Christmas is coming, a time for celebration and updating your wardrobe with a little bit red. Be it a coat, a day dress, an evening gown, or some casual separates, you can perhaps get a little bit inspiration from some of Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge's best red outfits over the years.
Red evening gowns
Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton royal wardrobe in 9 outfits for her official tour of Pakistan 2019 with Prince Williams, Duke of Cambridge
On October 2019, Prince William, Duke of Cambridge and his wife Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge embarked on a royal to Pakistan, the first time of the British royal family’s official visit to the country since Prince Charles, Duke of Cornwall and his wife Camila Duchess of Cornwall last did in 2006.
In the 5 day tour to this South Asian country of warm climates packed with public engagements, The Duchess of Cambridge once again showed her sense of style, diplomatic understanding and cultural respect of her host country with her royal wardrobe, wearing evening gown in the colour of Pakista’s National flag, to casual burka embroidered with Pakistan’s national flower Jasmine.
Monday, October 14, 2019
Tuesday, October 15, 2019
Wednesday, October 16, 2019
Thursday, October 17, 2019
Friday, October 18, 2019
Elizabeth Taylor is impossible to define. She played the most beautiful queens on screen, but off screen she would appear in some of the most garish and vulgar outfits, even she herself admitted she was one of the worst dressed women in the country; She publicly said her mother had taken advantage of her since she became the bread maker of her family as a teenager, but fiercely defended her mother Sara when the latter was insulted by a Hollywood producer; she dares to love, stop loving and love again, and marry men oof her own choices from Producer to Politician to truck driver, yet she made the terrible mistake of marrying the abusive Conrad Hilton Jr., the hotel chain heir against her own will when she was only 18. She was frivolous and extravagant, owning the most expensive jewellery in the world, but meanwhile she was generous and tireless in supporting noble causes against AIDS and breast cancer.
But one thing is certain, Elizabeth Taylor has been one of the real stars of her time as well as ours, and a headscarf is one of her most useful weapons to be and stay one, more than all of her fur coats and diamonds.
While describing Sophia Loren, some use the word "elegant", but most use "sexy". But perhaps the best word to describe a woman like Sophia Loren, is "Grand": She looks like an Italian volcano alive, with everything grand: grand eyes, grand nose, grand mouth, and of course, a grand figure: Grand, but feminine.
What is grander than her figure, is perhaps her personality: when one of the worlds' most handsome and stylish men Cary Grant wanted to marry her, Sophia Loren chose a married Italian man shorter and more than 20 year older than her, Carlo Ponti, and never left him; At the peak of her movie career, she stopped working for months and months to stay in bed, so she can be a mother, twice; She Calle her mother every single day wherever she is and however busy she is.
On screen, Sophia Loren can play duchess, but off screen and in her heart, she is a Neapolitan, knowing what she wants and fights for it, loyal to her family and close to the earth, like all those peasant women she played with De Sica.
But when Sophia Loren wears a scarf over her head, she is a star, even in a peasant girls' costume.