Kate Middleton custom made/bespoke Alexander McQueen red double breast full length coat with peak lapel
Orry-Kelly created magic on screen, from Casablanca and The Maltese Falcon to Some Like It Hot. He won three Oscars for costume design. He dressed all the biggest stars, from Bette Davis to Marilyn Monroe. Yet few know who Orry-Kelly really was - until now.
Discovered in a pillowcase, Orry-Kelly's long-lost memoirs reveal a wildly talented and cheeky rascal who lived a big life, on and off the set. From his childhood in Kiama to revelling in Sydney's underworld nightlife as a naïve young artist and chasing his dreams of acting in New York, his early life is a wild and exciting ride. Sharing digs in New York with another aspiring actor, Cary Grant, and partying hard in between auditions, he ekes out a living painting murals for speakeasies before graduating to designing stage sets and costumes. When he finally arrives in Hollywood, it's clear his adventures have only just begun.
Fearless, funny and outspoken, Orry-Kelly lived life to the full. In Women I've Undressed, he shares a wickedly delicious slice of it.
A documentary about the life of the Australian costume designer and three time Oscar winner Orry-Kelly directed by Gillian Armstrong.
The model's name is Marguerite Kelsey (11 January 1909 – 5 March 1995).
She was born in 1909 in London and by the age of fifteen she had started her career as an artist's model.
She was renowned for her ability to hold a pose for a long time and in this case she appeared without a corset in the fashionable style known as "Las Garconne".
In the painting, Frampton painted in smooth colours without visible brushstrokes, achieving a look of almost photographic realism, an effect achieved usually with lengthy period of time, sometimes as long as a whole year.
And it is not the first time Meredith Frampton chooses the outfits of his model.
During the First World War, Frampton served in the British Army, and after the war Frampton resumed his artistic career and established himself as among the most highly regarded of British painters during the period. Frampton painted portraits of the Duke of York, who was to become King George VI, academics and scientists, and a series of full length portraits of women from fashionable society.
Besides Meredith Frampton, she also appears in notable works of art of other artists like Dame Laura Knight and Peter Edwards. And in 1994 Peter Edwards won the BP Portrait Award with Portrait of an Artist's Model (of Marguerite Kelsey) who was then in her eighties.
Kelsey died in High Wycombe in 1995.
For many years Frampton's art was rarely shown in public and he was largely forgotten. However, he lived to see his retrospective at the Tate in 1982. It was his first one-man show and greatly restored his standing. Now Frampton's work is on display at the National Portrait Gallery, Tate Gallery and Imperial War Museum.
The coat dress
For the ceremony, Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton wore a cream white coat dress with wing collar custom made for her by Alexander Mcqueen.
The detail of the coat dress
Worn When and where
Event: Christening of Princess Charlotte, St Mary Magdalene Church on the Queen’s Sandringham Estate.
Style with: Hat by Jane Taylor millinery; Shoes by Russell and Bromley Fifth Avenue.
Event: Trooping the color, London
Style with: Hat by Philip Treacy
Event: Ceremonies commemorating the centenary of the Battle of Passchendaele, Belgium
Style with: Hat from John Lock and Company. designed by Sylvia Fletcher, Marisabell style.
The coat dress in primrose yellow with cuff buttons
Event: Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding, St. George’s Chapel in Windsor.
Accessories: Hat by Philip Treacy; shoes by Jimmy Choo
To the eyes of many, the coat dress wore by Kate Middleton for the royal wedding is exactly the same as the one she wore for Charlotte's Christening and other events, because they do look identical, even the seaming and the unusual darting details under the collar look just the same.
From left to right: Kate Middleton in wing collar coat dress by Alexander Mcqueen for Charlotte Christening 2015, Trooping the Color 2016, Commemorations ceremony Belgium 2017 and Prince Harry and Meghan Markle wedding 2018 respectively
The coat dress in pale green with 3 quarter sleeves
Audrey Hepburn movie costume white lace midi dress with shawl collar in film Roman Holiday (1953) then restyled into her 1954 Oscar dress by Givenchy
The Roman Holiday farewell dress
From the farewell dress to Oscar dress
Audrey Hepburn won the best actress wearing the dainty lace dress.
Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and midi circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
And among all of her outfits, the white shirt and colored circle skirt ensemble is most iconic outfit Audrey wore in the movie.
As Edith Head explained:
"You see, she's supposed to be a princess disguised as an ordinary girl on the streets of Rome. So we made her a simple costume, so she wouldn't look different."
The white shirt
Edith Head obviously endorsed Audrey wearing the shirt that way even during the screen test: "In the picture, she had to look casual, informal and we felt, due to the heat of Rome in summer, a girl would really do this sort of thing.".
Edith Head's more thoughts on designing Audrey Hepburn's this ensemble can be seen in the following video:
The circle skirt
Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957/Ariane(directed by Billy Wilder)
Besides Italy, more than 50 countries including Spain and Portugal have made wearing mask compulsory (except noticeably UK) to slowdown the spread of coronavirus.
And besides, if we make enough effort, the masks not only can protect us, it can also decorate us, like other accessories such as sunglasses, scarves, even giving us a sense of mystery, when we walk around with mask that blend in with our outfits.
Now, will face masks become fashion because we need them, or because we are used to wearing them after we do not need them?
When: 26 Febrary 2011 St Andrews University, Scotland,
Kate Middleton and her fiance Prince Williams went back to their alma mater for their second public engagement together.
'Despite being one of Europe's leading research institutions, the third-oldest university in the English speaking world, and of course far and away the best university in the world, St Andrews still has that uncanny knack of feeling like home and so it must have done for generations of undergraduates before us.'
----Prince William speech at St. Andrews University
When: 14 April 2014
Kate Middleton and Prince William's royal tour New Zealand
When: 16 December 2015
Christmas Lunch at Buckingham Palace where Kate Middelton became Honorary Air Commandant of the RAF Air Cadets
When: 6 February 2017
At Mitchell Brook Primary School in North West Londay to mark the start of Children's Mental Health Week.
Kate Middleton blue silk jersey knit wrap dress by Issa London for her engagement announcement with Prince William
We are thrilled with the engagement news and I’m very happy that she has chosen to wear Issa today. She is a very pretty and lovely girl.”
-- Daniella Helayel, Issa label's owner and designer to People magazine
The unfortunate Kate effect:
Helayel's friend, Camilla Al-Fayed bought a 51% stake in her company, but in 2013, Helayel left the company due to the increasing stress. Two years later, in 2015, Issa London closed its doors for good.
In 2016 Daniella Helayel made a 14-piece collection for Monsoon, which also included a similar Kate-inspired wrap dress.
In spring 2017, British luxury department store House of Fraser acquired Issa London. They relaunched the brand exclusively in August of the same year. The first collection draws inspiration from Issa London’s archive, including a copy of Kate Middleton's wrap dress. But the new dress is made of much affordable viscose which sells for only £99, comparing with the original Issa dress made of silk jersey selling at £430.
The classic Issa wrap dress in royal blue is the ultimate wardrobe staple, taking you from day to evening with ease. This ultra flattering shape with V cross front neckline and long sleeves is belted at the waist and sits just above the knee. Fabricated in the brands’ signature silk jersey.
-- Issa on the 2015 version of the Kate engagement dress
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge Alexander McQueen cream cable knit sweater dress with sailor collar
A cream cable knit sweater dress of 3 quarter sleeve with sailor collar and navy stripes at the sleeve, waistband and the flared hemline. It's made of cotton and cashmere blend by Alexander McQueen
When: 4 July 2011, Prince Edward's Island, Canada
When: 4 July 2012, Wimbledon tennis court
Kate Middleton, The Duchess of Cambridge wore blue Jenny Packham gown to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Place2be
For the occation, The Duchess wore a bespoke royal blue Jenny Packham gown, which she had worn previously at a Bollywood Gala in Mumbai, India in 2016.
This time, she matched the embellished gown with beaded clutch and sparkling Jimmy Choo pumps.
Similar coat from Catherine Walker
Kate Middleton's 7 most elegant Alexander McQueen outfits after her royal marriage to Prince Williams
No.1: Alexander McQueen Sailor collar cable knit dress
Occation: Kate and William visited Charlottetown, the capital city of Prince of Edward Island.
Style: Long sleeve cable knit dress of nautical-theme with sailor collar and drop waist.
The dress fabric has a subtle repeating cable-knit stripe motif and dark trim on the hem, collar and at the waist. It’s a little nautical, a little 1920’s bourgeois tennis court."
-----The National Post
No.2: Alexander McQueen Lilac grecian gown
Occation: On the third day, the Kate Middleton and William attended a black-tie event held by BAFTA (the British Academy of Film and Television Arts) at the Belasco Theater in Los Angeles.
Style: Lilac grecian sleeveless style floor length gown
Alexander McQueen’s gorgeous Grecian floor length gown will leave you feeling like a modern day Aphrodite. Cinch in the cascading layers with McQueen’s signature fuchsia belt and adorn yourself in gilded extras for a show stopping finish."
No.3:Alexander McQueen Scoop neck dress with cut-out skirt
Occation: Queen Elizabeth II Diamond Jubilee, River Thames, London
Style: Long sleeve scoop neck false two piece with plaided skirt
No.4: Alexander McQueen Corn flower blue coat with buckles
Occation: William and Kate joined several members of the British Royal Family in Normandy, France to take part in events commemorating the 70th anniversary of D-Day.
Style: Cornflower blue coat with buckle
No.5: Alexander McQueen Light grey funnel neck coat
Occation: William and Kate attended an Easter Sunday church service at St Andrew’s Cathedral, Sidney, Australia
Style: Alexander McQueen Light grey funnel neck coat
Occation: Princess Charlotte’s christening at St Mary Magdalene Church on the Queen’s Sandringham Estate.
Style: Cream coat dress with oversized collar and back inverted pleat
No.7: Alexander McQueen whit lace dress with peplum skirt
Occation: Opening Day of Royal Ascot.
Style: White lace mini dress made from a cotton and silk blend fabric featuring a pleated peplum skirt, three-quarter length sleeves and a flared skirt.
His style can be described in one phrase: quintessential Paris intellectual. He likes sombre colours, mostly black, some times navy blue, or dark grey, never with embellishments; and black turtleneck and white shirt and occasional scarves in solid colours, his wardrobe is simple and classic. He also likes to wear dark on dark: black on black or navy on navy. Occasionally, though, he looks a bit more like a monk of Franciscan order when he goes too far, especially when his black shirt is all buttoned up.
"the Left Bank's most beautiful resident ... after each picture her enigmatic beauty lingered" in the memories of her audience.
--Life Magazine on Anouk Aimée
Anouk Aimée in headscarf:
Anouk Aimée in sweater
Anouk Aimée in dress
Anouk Aimée in ensemble
Holding a cigarette:
“The most important thing is that the suit be well cut. Then it needn’t be particularly new or even particularly well pressed. It will always hang properly. I make my suits last for years. The other day, I took one that’s, oh, eight years old, in to be altered – have the lapels narrowed and the trousers taken in. I go to Stovel & Mason in Old Burlington Street where I’ve trained the cutter to what I like, and he never commits the classic fault of London tailors – leaving too much fullness in the seat of the trousers.
-Douglas Fairbanks Jr. on style, Vogue 1966 August
When it comes to combinations of patters and colors, my wife tells me that I run to reds and blues, but I assure you that it’s not conscious. I do like blues, and yellows, but not beige or tan. Combining the patters and colors is simply a question of getting a contrast. With a striped suit I wouldn’t wear a striped shirt. With a striped shirt I would wear a plain woven tie in a much deeper or brighter color. The thing to keep in mind really is that the shirt, tie, and suit can’t look all the same in color or scale of pattern, and, of course, not to be self-conscious about combination. The one thing that I am especially conscious of is combining ties and pocket handkerchiefs. I avoid matching them at all costs. The pocket handkerchief should be colored and patterned, but not matching the tie. Better to have it related, or even entirely unrelated, so long as they don’t look wrong together.”
-Douglas Fairbanks Jr. on style, Vogue 1966 August
For sports things, I go to Huntsman in Savile Row, but in any case I’m rather conservative about suits. Being an actor, I plan my clothes rather more. No one in public life can afford to overstep. One has a responsibility, and before I get anything new, I brood about it, try it out on my wife and daughters, and perhaps on someone in the Club. Once the suit is settled, then the only thing is shoes and linen. I usually wear proper shoes except when I’m traveling, then I wear these things [well-polished tan loafers] because they’re so comfortable on planes. Otherwise, I go to Maxwell’s in Dover Street, and I always have shoes with elastic sides. I’ve been having them made since shortly after the war, and I don’t even own any lace-ups any longer.
-Douglas Fairbanks Jr. on style, Vogue 1966 August
Queen Letizia wore Felipe Varela midnight blue velvet gown for 2020 New Year reception in Royal Palace Madrid
Queen Letizia wore a blue velvet floor length gown with peter-pan collar by Spanish couturier Felipe Varela, Letizia's favorite designer, who made most of her formal outfits.
(The privilege of the white is a special prerogative used by Catholic queens, princesses and duchesses during audiences with the Pope, during which they are authorized to wear white clothes and mantles, usually reserved for the sovereign pontiff.)
Actuellement, les dames catholiques éligibles à ce privilège sont les suivantes:
- La reine Paola de Belgique;
- Mathilde, reine des Belges;
- Letizia, reine d’Espagne;
- La reine Sophie d’Espagne;
- Marina, princesse de Naples (épouse du chef de la maison de Savoie);
- Maria Teresa, grand-duchesse de Luxembourg ;
- Charlène, princesse de Monaco
Ce privilège n’est pas utilisé par les reines à chaque rencontre avec le pape, mais davantage pour les occasions les plus solennelles. Ainsi, Marina, « princesse de Naples » a utilisé le privilège du blanc lors d’une messe en 2003 célébrant l’anniversaire de Jean-Paul II.
(Currently, the Catholic royal women eligible for this privilege are the following:
- Queen Paola of Belgium
- Queen Mathilde of Belgium
- Queen Letizia of Spain
- Queen Sofia of Spain
- Marina, princess of Naples
- Maria Teresa, grand duchess of Luxembourg
- Charlene, Princess of Monaco
This privilege is not used by the queens at each audience with the pope, but for the most solemn occasions. Thus, Marina, Princess of Naples used the privilege of white during a mass in 2003 celebrating the birthday of John Paul II.
(On 1 January 2013, the princess Charlene of Monaco has been exceptionally allowed to use this privilège for her audience with His holiness Pope Benedict XVI).
Le bureau de presse du Vatican a, par la suite, indiqué que « conformément au protocole prescrit par le Vatican concernant les souverains catholiques, la princesse [Charlène de Monaco] a été autorisée à s’habiller en blanc »
(The Vatican Office states that “in accordance with prescribed ceremonial of the Vatican for Catholic sovereigns, the princess was allowed to dress in white…”)
Twill, one of red basic textiles weaves, produced with a diagonal rib, ridge, or wale. In regular twill the diagonal line is repeated regularly, usually running upward left to right at 45 degree.
The weave can be varied in many ways, for example, by changing the direction of the twill line or its angle.
Silk twill is lightweight, but strong. The most obvious example of silk twill is a silk scarf of Hermès.
Charmeuse is a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave, in which the threads cross over four or more of the backing (weft) threads. These float threads give the front of the fabric a smooth, reflective finish, whereas the back has a dull finish.
Charmeuse differs from plain satin in that charmeuse has a different ratio of float (face) threads.
Luster and delicate hand make charmeuse suited for scarves, lingerie, flowing evening gowns, and draped blouses. Bridal gowns sometimes use charmeuse; however, the fabric does not hold shape well, so it is not used for full, flared skirts; the charmeuse tends to cling and hang against the body. It is best suited to more fluid, slinky bias cut, and drapes well.
Its uses in menswear includes the lining of jackets and slacks, handkerchiefs, ties, and underwear such as charmeuse boxer shorts.
It is similar to shantung, but slightly thicker, heavier, and with a greater slub (That runs horizontally across the fabric) count, which is part of Dupioni’s character, not defects.
Dupioni tends to resist wrinkles compared with other types of silk, and it also takes creases very well to give the dress made with Dupioni crisp and formal appearance. Besides, it is usually reversible so it is possible to use it making a coat or dress to be worn on both sides,
Along with shantung, dupioni is popular in bridal and other formal wear, it is also perfect for dresses, blouses, jackets, skirts as well as handbags.
Varanasi, India is one of the major manufacturers of Dupion. Weavers of nearby villagers, mainly of the Ansari community, have been producing fabrics for generations. The major demands of the Indian wedding industry are met by this city.
Silk Georgette (from crêpe Georgette) is a sheer, lightweight, dull-finished crêpe fabricnamed after the early 20th century French dress maker and milliner Georgette de la Plante.
Georgette is made with highly twisted yarns. Its characteristic crinkly surface is created by alternating S- and Z-twist yarns in both warp and weft. It is springier and less lustrous than the closely related chiffon, which is also sheer and flowing.
Georgette is made in solid colors and prints and is used for bridal gowns, blouses, dresses, evening gowns, saris, sacrves, as well as jackets and shirts, usually for women.
Unlike finer silks such as crepe de chine or chiffon, Georgette is unusually strong and holds up well to varied wear. So it is strong enough embroidering and beading.
"You must believe me when I tell you that I have found it impossible to carry out the heavy burden of responsibility and discharge my duty as King as I would wish to do, without the support of the woman I love"
When he was still Prince of Wales, David already showed the sign of a rebel. He was not on time for meetings, even if it was meetings with his father King George V; he wanted to fight as a soldier when the First World War broke; he was the first royal to ever learn flying; he was always involved with married women and hated the idea of being married; he liked to dress as he saw fit instead of following the Royal protocol.
Decades later, in his memoir, Duke of Windsor described how one morning, still Prince of Wales, walked into the breakfast-room, late as usual, wearing a pair of turned up trousers, his father the King looked at him with disgust, and asked: "Is it raining outside?"
And then Prince Edward fell in love with Wallis Simpson, a married American woman who was once divorced.
And he wanted to marry Wallis Simpson, now twice divorced, with both husbands alive.
After all attempted persuasions and negotiations between the two parts failed, King Edward VIII made the decision that shocked the world and history: He would gave up his throne to marry the woman he love, and abdicate, ending his 325 days of reign, the shortest in British history.
In March 1937, Prince Edward was officially titled His Royal Highness Duke Of Windsor, and 3 month later, the Duke finally married Wallis Simpson, now Your Grace Duchess of Windsor.
And for the rest of life, Duke of Windsor lived in permanent exile with his wife in France, apart from 5 year in Panama when he was appointed Governor there.
In October 1969, three year before his death, Duke of Windsor agreed to give an interview together with Duchess of Windsor conducted by Kenneth Harris for BBC, and when the interview was broadcasted in 1970, it was watched by 12 million people.
Duke of Windsor died on 28 May 1972 at his home in Paris France of throat cancer.
On 9 April 2005, when another Prince of Wales, Duke of Windsor's great nephew Prince Charles married Camilla the divorcee, the Archbishop of Canterbury endorsed the marriage, and Queen Elizabeth II, mother of Prince Charles and niece of Duke of Windsor, blessed the reunion of "My son" and " the woman he loves."
And on 19 May 2018, Prince Harry married Meghan Markle, an American commoner and divorcee, just like Wallis Simpson had been more than eight decades ago.
In 1997, when Princess Diana was chased to death by the crazy French paparazzi in a Paris tunnel, it was like a replay of another group of French paparazzi hounding down Wallis Simpson in south France when she was trying to escape the British press, 50 years earlier.
And Duke of Windsor's hat maker The Lock & Co. is now making hats for other Dukes of his family: Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh and Prince Charles, Duke of Cornwall, as well as the newer generation like Prince Williams, Prince Harry, Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle.
Let's just wish the legend and style influence of Duke of Windsor, an extraordinary man who knows what he wants and has the courage to pursue it regardless what others would think, will live on as long as The Lock & Co. , the oldest hat maker in the world, continues to make hats.
Coat and coat dress
Red evening coat
Red evening gowns