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Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes

16/7/2020

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1948. Florida.

Key Largo is a 1948 American film noir crime drama directed by John Huston and starring Humphrey Bogart, Edward G. Robinson and Lauren Bacall.

Army veteran Frank McCloud (Humphrey Bogart) arrives at the Hotel Largo in Key Largo, Florida, visiting the family of George Temple, a friend who served under him and was killed in the Italian campaign several years before. He meets with the friend's widow Nora Temple (Lauren Bacall) and father James (Lionel Barrymore), who owns the hotel. There he is confronted with a gangster Johnny Rocco (Edward G. Robinson) and his group who force him to help them escape to Cuba. Frank manages to kill the gang members one by one and heads back to Key Largo, and Nora.

In the film, Lauren Bacall's only outfit is a white shirt wearing with a woolen circle skirt hitting at her calf, and a pair of Spanish style espadrilles. 

The white shirt, designed by Leah Rhodes, with pointed collars and one chest pocket, accompanies Lauren Bacall on her emotional journey as Nora with Frank on screen, as well as her time onsite as Bacall with Bogard off screen. 

Key Largo was the fourth and final film Lauren Bacall made with her husband Humphrey Bogart. Her white shirt, as well as that worn by Bogart coordinating perfectly with hers, is like a symbol of connection between the two stars who are lovers both on screen and off screen.
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
Lauren Bacall's white shirt in film Key Largo(1948) designed by Leah Rhodes
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The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars

9/7/2020

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The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars
Orry-Kelly (31 December 1897 – 27 February 1964) was born as Orry George Kelly in the New South Wales coastal town of Kiama, about 80 miles south of Sydney, in 1897, and he was sent to Sydney at age 17 to study banking, where he developed his interest in theatre. 

In 1923, he went to New York(where he met his then room mate as well as claimed lover Cary Grant), hoping to become actor but instead working for odd jobs with his drawing talent, until finding job to dress Broadway actresses including Katharine Hepburn.

In 1932 Kelly started working in Hollywood as costume designer of Warner Brothers, and in the following 30 years Kelly worked in more than 280 films, became one of the most important costume designers of Golden Hollywood, alongside 
Travis Banton and Gilbert Adrian, winning 3 Oscars(1951: An American in Paris; 1957: Les girls; 1959: Some like it hot) and was nominated for another film in which he designed the costumes: Gympsy(1962). Although his name was most closely associated with stars like Kay Francis, Dolores del Rio and Bette Davis, for whom he created costumes in more than 30 films, many of Kelly's most iconic designs for Hollywood are those he created for next generation of Hollywood stars like Ingrid Bergman, Ava Gardner, Marilyn Monroe and Natalie Wood, and were created after he did not work for Warner Brothers anymore.
Bette Davis in film Dark Victory, 1939, costumed designed by Orry Kelly
Bette Davis in film Dark Victory, 1939, costumed designed by Orry Kelly
Orry Kelly fitting Kay Francis, his favorite mannequine
Orry Kelly fitting Kay Francis, his favorite mannequine
Dolores Del Rio in film
Dolores Del Rio in film "I Live for Love" (1935), Costume designer by Orry Kelly

For Ingrid Bergman in film Casablanca, 1942

The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars
The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars
The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars
The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars

For Ava Gardner in film One touch of Venus, 1948

Ava Gardner in film
Orry Kelly fitting Ava Gardner for her film
Orry Kelly fitting Ava Gardner for her film "One Touch of Venus" (1948).

For Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951)

Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly

For Marilyn Monroe in film Some like it hot, 1959

Orry-Kelly with Marilyn Monroe during a fitting for film Some Like It Hot
Orry-Kelly with Marilyn Monroe during a fitting for film Some Like It Hot
Marilyn Monroe in film Some Like It Hot(1959) wearing cocktail dress designed by Orry Kelly
Marilyn Monroe in film Some Like It Hot(1959) wearing cocktail dress designed by Orry Kelly
Marilyn Monroe in film Some Like It Hot(1959) wearing black dress designed by Orry Kelly
Marilyn Monroe in film Some Like It Hot(1959) wearing black dress designed by Orry Kelly

Further interest

Articles

ORRY-KELLY: WOMEN HE’S UNDRESSED
Book
Orry-Kelly created magic on screen, from Casablanca and The Maltese Falcon to Some Like It Hot. He won three Oscars for costume design. He dressed all the biggest stars, from Bette Davis to Marilyn Monroe. Yet few know who Orry-Kelly really was - until now.

Discovered in a pillowcase, Orry-Kelly's long-lost memoirs reveal a wildly talented and cheeky rascal who lived a big life, on and off the set. From his childhood in Kiama to revelling in Sydney's underworld nightlife as a naïve young artist and chasing his dreams of acting in New York, his early life is a wild and exciting ride. Sharing digs in New York with another aspiring actor, Cary Grant, and partying hard in between auditions, he ekes out a living painting murals for speakeasies before graduating to designing stage sets and costumes. When he finally arrives in Hollywood, it's clear his adventures have only just begun.

Fearless, funny and outspoken, Orry-Kelly lived life to the full. In Women I've Undressed, he shares a wickedly delicious slice of it.

Video
A documentary about the life of the Australian costume designer and three time Oscar winner Orry-Kelly directed by Gillian Armstrong.
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Marguerite Kelsey's white column dress by Meredith Frampton

8/7/2020

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Marguerite Kelsey by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
Marguerite Kelsey by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
In 1928, British painter Meredith Frampton RA (17 March 1894 – 16 September 1984) painted the portrait of a woman in white dress, which features bateau neckline, short sleeves, and column silhouette. 

​The model's name is Marguerite Kelsey (11 January 1909 – 5 March 1995). 

She was born in 1909 in London and by the age of fifteen she had started her career as an artist's model.

She was renowned for her ability to hold a pose for a long time and in this case she appeared without a corset in the fashionable style known as "Las Garconne". 

In the painting, Frampton painted in smooth colours without visible brushstrokes, achieving a look of almost photographic realism, an effect achieved usually with lengthy period of time, sometimes as long as a whole year.

Marguerite Kelsey in white dress by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
Marguerite Kelsey by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
This painting is now in the Tate Museum in London and it has been described as the "epitome of modern classicism".
Marguerite Kelsey by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
Meredith Frampton is very meticulous with the outfits of Marguerite Kelsey, ​both the dress and the red ballet shoes are chosen and supplied by the painter himself.
​
And it is not the first time Meredith Frampton chooses the outfits of his model. ​​
In 1935, when he painted Portrait of A Young Woman, Frampton not only had several of the objects in the painting made specially for the painting, his mother also made the dress worn by the model, Margaret Austin-Jones, which is a floor-length silk dress in ivory color with a pale pink wrap top.
Portrait of a young woman by Meredith Frampton modeled by Margaret Austin-Jones, 1935, Tate Gallery
Portrait of a young woman by Meredith Frampton modeled by Margaret Austin-Jones, 1935, Tate Gallery
Meredith Frampton was born in the St John's Wood area of London and was the only child of the sculptor Sir George Frampton and his wife, the painter Christabel Cockerell. Frampton was educated at Westminster School and went on to attend the Royal Academy Schools between 1912 and 1915, where he won both a first prize and a silver medal.

During the First World War, Frampton served in the British Army, and after the war Frampton resumed his artistic career and established himself as among the most highly regarded of British painters during the period. Frampton painted portraits of the Duke of York, who was to become King George VI, academics and scientists, and a series of full length portraits of women from fashionable society.  
A game of Patience by Meredith Frampton modeled by Marguerite Kelsey, 1937, Ferens Art Gallery in Hull
A game of Patience by Meredith Frampton modeled by Marguerite Kelsey, 1937, Ferens Art Gallery in Hull
In 1937 Marguerite Kelsey modeled again for Frampton and as a result he painted her with cards as "A Game of Patience".
She spent two decades in New Zealand and return to the United Kingdom in the early 1980s suffering with arthritis.

Besides Meredith Frampton, she also appears in notable works of art of other artists like Dame Laura Knight and Peter Edwards. And in 1994 Peter Edwards won the BP Portrait Award with Portrait of an Artist's Model (of Marguerite Kelsey) who was then in her eighties.

Kelsey died in High Wycombe in 1995.
Marguerite Kelsey portrait by Alan Beeton in 1936
Marguerite Kelsey portrait by Alan Beeton in 1936
In the 1950s, as his eyesight worsened, Frampton and his wife moved to a hilltop house overlooking Monkton Deverill in Wiltshire. Frampton had designed the property in the 1930s and for the rest of his life he worked on improving and maintaining this house, which included his own furniture and clock designs.

For many years Frampton's art was rarely shown in public and he was largely forgotten. However, he lived to see his retrospective at the Tate in 1982. It was his first one-man show and greatly restored his standing. Now Frampton's work is on display at the National Portrait Gallery, Tate Gallery and Imperial War Museum.

Further interest

Article
  • Meredith Frampton is the forgotten genius of British art
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