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The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars

9/7/2020

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The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars
Orry-Kelly (31 December 1897 – 27 February 1964) was born as Orry George Kelly in the New South Wales coastal town of Kiama, about 80 miles south of Sydney, in 1897, and he was sent to Sydney at age 17 to study banking, where he developed his interest in theatre. 

In 1923, he went to New York(where he met his then room mate as well as claimed lover Cary Grant), hoping to become actor but instead working for odd jobs with his drawing talent, until finding job to dress Broadway actresses including Katharine Hepburn.

In 1932 Kelly started working in Hollywood as costume designer of Warner Brothers, and in the following 30 years Kelly worked in more than 280 films, became one of the most important costume designers of Golden Hollywood, alongside 
Travis Banton and Gilbert Adrian, winning 3 Oscars(1951: An American in Paris; 1957: Les girls; 1959: Some like it hot) and was nominated for another film in which he designed the costumes: Gympsy(1962). Although his name was most closely associated with stars like Kay Francis, Dolores del Rio and Bette Davis, for whom he created costumes in more than 30 films, many of Kelly's most iconic designs for Hollywood are those he created for next generation of Hollywood stars like Ingrid Bergman, Ava Gardner, Marilyn Monroe and Natalie Wood, and were created after he did not work for Warner Brothers anymore.
Bette Davis in film Dark Victory, 1939, costumed designed by Orry Kelly
Bette Davis in film Dark Victory, 1939, costumed designed by Orry Kelly
Orry Kelly fitting Kay Francis, his favorite mannequine
Orry Kelly fitting Kay Francis, his favorite mannequine
Dolores Del Rio in film
Dolores Del Rio in film "I Live for Love" (1935), Costume designer by Orry Kelly

For Ingrid Bergman in film Casablanca, 1942

The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars
The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars
The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars
The most iconic outfits designed by Orry-Kelly for Hollywood stars

For Ava Gardner in film One touch of Venus, 1948

Ava Gardner in film
Orry Kelly fitting Ava Gardner for her film
Orry Kelly fitting Ava Gardner for her film "One Touch of Venus" (1948).

For Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951)

Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly
Leslie Caron in film An American in Paris(1951), costume designed by Orry Kelly

For Marilyn Monroe in film Some like it hot, 1959

Orry-Kelly with Marilyn Monroe during a fitting for film Some Like It Hot
Orry-Kelly with Marilyn Monroe during a fitting for film Some Like It Hot
Marilyn Monroe in film Some Like It Hot(1959) wearing cocktail dress designed by Orry Kelly
Marilyn Monroe in film Some Like It Hot(1959) wearing cocktail dress designed by Orry Kelly
Marilyn Monroe in film Some Like It Hot(1959) wearing black dress designed by Orry Kelly
Marilyn Monroe in film Some Like It Hot(1959) wearing black dress designed by Orry Kelly

Further interest

Articles

ORRY-KELLY: WOMEN HE’S UNDRESSED
Book
Orry-Kelly created magic on screen, from Casablanca and The Maltese Falcon to Some Like It Hot. He won three Oscars for costume design. He dressed all the biggest stars, from Bette Davis to Marilyn Monroe. Yet few know who Orry-Kelly really was - until now.

Discovered in a pillowcase, Orry-Kelly's long-lost memoirs reveal a wildly talented and cheeky rascal who lived a big life, on and off the set. From his childhood in Kiama to revelling in Sydney's underworld nightlife as a naïve young artist and chasing his dreams of acting in New York, his early life is a wild and exciting ride. Sharing digs in New York with another aspiring actor, Cary Grant, and partying hard in between auditions, he ekes out a living painting murals for speakeasies before graduating to designing stage sets and costumes. When he finally arrives in Hollywood, it's clear his adventures have only just begun.

Fearless, funny and outspoken, Orry-Kelly lived life to the full. In Women I've Undressed, he shares a wickedly delicious slice of it.

Video
A documentary about the life of the Australian costume designer and three time Oscar winner Orry-Kelly directed by Gillian Armstrong.
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Marguerite Kelsey's white column dress by Meredith Frampton

8/7/2020

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Marguerite Kelsey by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
Marguerite Kelsey by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
In 1928, British painter Meredith Frampton RA (17 March 1894 – 16 September 1984) painted the portrait of a woman in white dress, which features bateau neckline, short sleeves, and column silhouette. 

​The model's name is Marguerite Kelsey (11 January 1909 – 5 March 1995). 

She was born in 1909 in London and by the age of fifteen she had started her career as an artist's model.

She was renowned for her ability to hold a pose for a long time and in this case she appeared without a corset in the fashionable style known as "Las Garconne". 

In the painting, Frampton painted in smooth colours without visible brushstrokes, achieving a look of almost photographic realism, an effect achieved usually with lengthy period of time, sometimes as long as a whole year.

Marguerite Kelsey in white dress by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
Marguerite Kelsey by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
This painting is now in the Tate Museum in London and it has been described as the "epitome of modern classicism".
Marguerite Kelsey by Meredith Frampton, 1928, Tate Gallery, London
Meredith Frampton is very meticulous with the outfits of Marguerite Kelsey, ​both the dress and the red ballet shoes are chosen and supplied by the painter himself.
​
And it is not the first time Meredith Frampton chooses the outfits of his model. ​​
In 1935, when he painted Portrait of A Young Woman, Frampton not only had several of the objects in the painting made specially for the painting, his mother also made the dress worn by the model, Margaret Austin-Jones, which is a floor-length silk dress in ivory color with a pale pink wrap top.
Portrait of a young woman by Meredith Frampton modeled by Margaret Austin-Jones, 1935, Tate Gallery
Portrait of a young woman by Meredith Frampton modeled by Margaret Austin-Jones, 1935, Tate Gallery
Meredith Frampton was born in the St John's Wood area of London and was the only child of the sculptor Sir George Frampton and his wife, the painter Christabel Cockerell. Frampton was educated at Westminster School and went on to attend the Royal Academy Schools between 1912 and 1915, where he won both a first prize and a silver medal.

During the First World War, Frampton served in the British Army, and after the war Frampton resumed his artistic career and established himself as among the most highly regarded of British painters during the period. Frampton painted portraits of the Duke of York, who was to become King George VI, academics and scientists, and a series of full length portraits of women from fashionable society.  
A game of Patience by Meredith Frampton modeled by Marguerite Kelsey, 1937, Ferens Art Gallery in Hull
A game of Patience by Meredith Frampton modeled by Marguerite Kelsey, 1937, Ferens Art Gallery in Hull
In 1937 Marguerite Kelsey modeled again for Frampton and as a result he painted her with cards as "A Game of Patience".
She spent two decades in New Zealand and return to the United Kingdom in the early 1980s suffering with arthritis.

Besides Meredith Frampton, she also appears in notable works of art of other artists like Dame Laura Knight and Peter Edwards. And in 1994 Peter Edwards won the BP Portrait Award with Portrait of an Artist's Model (of Marguerite Kelsey) who was then in her eighties.

Kelsey died in High Wycombe in 1995.
Marguerite Kelsey portrait by Alan Beeton in 1936
Marguerite Kelsey portrait by Alan Beeton in 1936
In the 1950s, as his eyesight worsened, Frampton and his wife moved to a hilltop house overlooking Monkton Deverill in Wiltshire. Frampton had designed the property in the 1930s and for the rest of his life he worked on improving and maintaining this house, which included his own furniture and clock designs.

For many years Frampton's art was rarely shown in public and he was largely forgotten. However, he lived to see his retrospective at the Tate in 1982. It was his first one-man show and greatly restored his standing. Now Frampton's work is on display at the National Portrait Gallery, Tate Gallery and Imperial War Museum.

Further interest

Article
  • Meredith Frampton is the forgotten genius of British art
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Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen

5/7/2020

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The coat dress

On 5 July 2015, at St Mary Magdalene Church on the Queen’s Sandringham Estate, The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, held a small ceremony for christening their daughter Princess Charlotte, only immediate family, godparents and their spouses were invited.

For the ceremony, Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton wore a cream white coat dress with wing collar custom made for her by Alexander Mcqueen.

Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Charlotte Christening 2015
The bespoke coat dress is made of silk wool blend, featuring a fit-and-flare silhouette with inverted back pleat, a peaked shoulder and a very unusual wide wing lapel.
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Charlotte Christening 2015

The detail of the coat dress

Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Charlotte Christening 2015 detail
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Charlotte Christening 2015
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Charlotte Christening 2015 detail

Worn When and where

Time: 5 July 2015
Event: Christening of Princess Charlotte, St Mary Magdalene Church on the Queen’s Sandringham Estate.
Style with: Hat by Jane Taylor millinery; Shoes by Russell and Bromley Fifth Avenue.
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Charlotte Christening 2015
Time: June 2016
Event: Trooping the color, London
Style with: Hat by Philip Treacy
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Trooping the color 2016
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Trooping the color 2016
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Trooping the color 2016
Time: 30 July 2017
Event: C
eremonies commemorating the centenary of the Battle of Passchendaele, Belgium
Style with: Hat from 
John Lock and Company. designed by Sylvia Fletcher, Marisabell style.
Picture
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Belgium 2017
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Belgium 2017
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Belgium 2017

The coat dress in primrose yellow with cuff buttons

Time: 19 May 2018
Event: Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding, St. George’s Chapel in Windsor. 
Accessories: 
Hat by Philip Treacy; shoes by Jimmy Choo
Is it still the same dress or a new one?
​
To the eyes of many, the coat dress wore by Kate Middleton for the royal wedding is exactly the same as the one she wore for Charlotte's Christening and other events, because they do look identical, even the seaming and the unusual darting details under the collar look just the same.
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Charlotte Christening 2015
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Meghan Markle and Prince Harry wedding 2018
The only noted difference seems that the coat dress Kate wore for the royal wedding features four buttons on the cuff, as seen in the following pictures. 
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Meghan Markle and Prince Harry wedding 2018
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Meghan Markle and Prince Harry wedding 2018
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Meghan Markle and Prince Harry wedding 2018
While the coat dress she wore for Charlotte's christening does not have.
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Charlotte Christening 2015 detail
And according to Royal Palace, The Duchess's outfit for the Royal Wedding is a "primrose yellow wool silk coat by Alexander McQueen". In this official photo of the royal wedding taking indoors, the color of the coat dress of Kate Middleton does look yellow against the color of Charlote's dress.
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Meghan Markle and Prince Harry wedding 2018
Another indoor photo showing the coat dress more clearly in the yellow tone, and from the way how Kate styled her dress with a hat with yellow flowers also hints she was matching it with the color of her dress.
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen Meghan Markle and Prince Harry wedding 2018
Here is a look at how Kate Middleton wears this very elegant coat dress differently.

From left to right: Kate Middleton in wing collar coat dress by Alexander Mcqueen for Charlotte Christening 2015, Trooping the Color 2016, Commemorations ceremony Belgium 2017 and Prince Harry and Meghan Markle wedding 2018 respectively
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen worn multiple times
Left to right: Kate Middleton in wing collar coat dress by Alexander Mcqueen for Charlotte Christening 2015, Trooping the Color 2016, Commemorations ceremony Belgium 2017 and Prince Harry and Meghan Markle wedding 2018 respectively

The coat dress in pale green with 3 quarter sleeves

In July 2018, less than two months after, when The Duchess of Cambridge attended RAF centenary Service, she wore another coat dress by Alexander McQueen with the same silhouette and tailoring details, except the shorter sleeves, and in a pale green color.
Kate Middleton Duchess of Cambridge bespoke wing lapel wool silk coat dress by Alexander McQueen for RAF Ceremony 2018
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Audrey Hepburn movie costume white lace midi dress with shawl collar in film Roman Holiday (1953) then restyled into her 1954 Oscar dress by Givenchy

3/7/2020

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Audrey Hepburn movie costume white lace midi dress with shawl collar in film Roman Holiday (1953) designed by Edith Head
In 1952, the then young and unknown Audrey Hepburn was cast in Paramount film Roman Holiday directed by William Wyler as Princess Ann, Edith Head the head costume designer of Paramount designed her wardrobe. ​

The Roman Holiday farewell dress

In the closing scene of the movie, Audrey Hepburn as Princess Ann held a press conference where she would meet Joe, the reporter she fell in love for the last time. In that scene, she wore a white lace midi dress with a shawl collar, wrap-over bodice and fitted waist, styled with a pearl choker and a Juliet style hat. 
Audrey Hepburn movie costume white lace midi dress with shawl collar in film Roman Holiday (1953) designed by Edith Head
Audrey Hepburn movie costume white lace midi dress with shawl collar in film Roman Holiday (1953) designed by Edith Head
Audrey Hepburn with director William Wyler of Roman Holiday wearing the Ann lace dress
Audrey Hepburn movie costume white lace midi dress with shawl collar in film Roman Holiday (1953) designed by Edith Head
Audrey Hepburn with director William Wyler of Roman Holiday wearing the Ann lace dress
Audrey Hepburn movie costume white lace midi dress with shawl collar in film Roman Holiday (1953) designed by Edith Head
Audrey Hepburn wearing Princess Ann lace dress for her screen test of Roman Holiday

From the farewell dress to Oscar dress

Audrey Hepburn oscar dress restyled from film Roman Holiday (1953)
In 1954, at the 26th Annual Academy Awards, Audrey Hepburn wore a sleeveless floral lace dress with a belt. It is actually restyled from the Roman Holiday Farewell lace dress by Hubert de Givenchy, by then Audrey Hepburn's favorite designer.

Audrey Hepburn won the best actress wearing the dainty lace dress.
Audrey Hepburn oscar dress restyled from film Roman Holiday (1953)
Here is a video clip of Audrey Hepburn accepted her her Oscar award in the lace dress.
In 2011, on November 29, the lace dress was sold at auction for £84,000 by Kerry Taylor, a British auction house.
Audrey Hepburn oscar dress restyled from film Roman Holiday (1953)
Audrey Hepburn oscar dress restyled from film Roman Holiday (1953)
Audrey Hepburn oscar dress restyled from film Roman Holiday (1953)
Audrey Hepburn oscar dress restyled from film Roman Holiday (1953)
Audrey Hepburn oscar dress restyled from film Roman Holiday (1953)
Audrey Hepburn oscar dress restyled from film Roman Holiday (1953)
Audrey Hepburn oscar dress restyled from film Roman Holiday (1953)
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Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and midi circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953

1/7/2020

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In 1952, the then young and unknown Audrey Hepburn was cast in Paramount film Roman Holiday directed by William Wyler as Princess Ann, Edith Head the head costume designer of Paramount designed her wardrobe. 

And among all of her outfits, the white shirt and colored circle skirt ensemble is most iconic outfit Audrey wore in the movie.
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953

The ensemble

It's a simple button down long sleeve shirt with undefined shoulder and a separate jabot, and a ankle long circle skirt with belt.

​As Edith Head explained:
"You see, she's supposed to be a princess disguised as an ordinary girl on the streets of Rome. So we made her a simple costume, so she wouldn't look different." 

The white shirt

In the movie, Audrey Hepburn first wore the ensemble with the shirt sleeves buttoned as she left the embassy palace.
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
As the movie progresses, Audrey Hepburn would wear the shirt with the sleeves rolled up. 
​
Edith Head obviously endorsed Audrey wearing the shirt that way even during the screen test: "In the picture, she had to look casual, informal and we felt, due to the heat of Rome in summer, a girl would really do this sort of thing.".

Edith Head's more thoughts on designing Audrey Hepburn's this ensemble can be seen in the following video:

All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
During Audrey's test, Edith Head has also designed another two alternative jersey blouses for her, one with buttons, another slip on, but later the white shirt was chosen, perhaps as a Princess, the two jersey blouses could be too figure hugging. 
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
Audrey Hepburn wore buttoned jersey with short sleeves for her screen test of Roman Holiday
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
Audrey Hepburn wore buttoned jersey with short sleeves for her screen test of Roman Holiday
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
Audrey Hepburn wore slip on jersey with cap sleeves for her screen test of Roman Holiday

The circle skirt

The length and silouette
The skirt is a circle skirt hitting below Audrey's mid calf, looking conservative and demure. It seems there exists an alternative skirt which Audrey Hepburn wore only for her screen test, one that is a little bit shorter with more volume(Or perhaps she is wearing some petticoat underneath?).
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
The possible alternative circle skirt Audrey Hepburn wore only for her screen test.
All about Audrey Hepburn movie costume ensemble of white shirt and ankle circle skirt in film Roman Holiday, 1953
The color
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday? Perhaps only Edith Head can answer this question by now. In some pictures, the color is sky blue, but then in another, it looks like a beige. And the doll makers seem like the beige version, and they all have Audrey Hepburn like doll wearing the beige skirt.
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday?
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday?
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday?
Picture
Picture
Picture
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday?
Picture
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday?
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday?
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday?
Blue or Beige? What is the color of Audrey Hepurn's circle skirt in Roman Holiday?
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Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957/Ariane(directed by Billy Wilder)

1/7/2020

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In 1957, Audrey Hepburn starred with Gary Cooper in the film Love in the afternoon(in French: Ariane) directed by Billy Wilder. By now, Hubert de Givenchy has become Audrey Hepburn's default designer, and in this film, Givenchy has made a few black dresses for Audrey Hepburn's personage Ariane, a young innocent music student. The silhouettes are all classic 50s style with wide skirts, but Givenchy use some designing details to indicate her identity as well as her transformation of moods as the film progresses.

No. 1

Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957
Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957
Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957
Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957
For more details about this black dress, visit roger-viollet.fr
Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957

No.2

Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957

No. 3

Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957

No. 4

Audrey Hepburn's little black dresses in film Love in the afternoon, 1957
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