Jean Louis (born Jean Louis Berthault; 5 October 1907 in Paris, France – 20 April 1997 in Palm Springs, California) was a French-born, Hollywood costume designer and an Academy Award winner for Best Costume Design. Jean-Louis Berthault dit Jean Louis est un créateur de costumes français, né le 5 octobre 1907 à Paris et mort le à Palm Springs (Californie). Ayant fait l’essentiel de sa carrière à Hollywood, il est célèbre entre autres pour avoir créé la robe fourreau en satin noir de Rita Hayworth dans Gilda et la robe couleur chair que Marilyn Monroe portait le 19 mai 1962 lors de l’anniversaire de John Fitzgerald Kennedy au Madison Square Garden. BiographyJean Louis was born in Paris, after graduating from l’École des Arts décoratifs, started his career as a sketch artist for the Agnes-Drecoll couturier. In 1935, when he travelled to New York, he was noted by fashion entrepreneur Hattie Carnegie and got a job there to add some Parisian touch to her collection. He showed his talents for the Carnegie suit he designed in 1937, a suit that became an icon in the fashion world. The Carnegie suit was one of the first fashions to become very well-liked as an American name design, and its fitted blazer and long pencil skirt was worn by several actresses and society women at the time. It was also in Hattie Carnegie where he acquired his clientele, including Hollywood stars Irene Dunne, Joan Crawford, as well as The Duchess of Windsor who became one of his most famous clients. But his most important client was Joan Cohn, the wife of Columbia Pictures studio chief Harry Cohn, who later persuaded her husband to hire Jean Louis. In 1944, Jean Louis started to work for Columbia Pictures as assistant costume designer and became head designer a year later when the then head designer Travis Banton left Columbia. For the next 13 years, he created some of the most iconic gowns of Golden Hollywood. His most famous works include Rita Hayworth's black satin strapless dress from Gilda (1946), Marlene Dietrich's celebrated beaded souffle stagewear in The Monte Carlo Story(1956) In 1958, Jean Louis left Columbia picture for Universal Studio, where he designed for Universal stars like Doris Day and Lana Turner. For over forty years, Jean Louis designed clothes for almost every star in Hollywood including:
Around sixty of his designs appeared in movies, and he was eventually nominated for 14 Academy Awards. But his most famous design, was not for any of the film he worked for. While working with Universal, Jean Louis also worked with other Hollywood studios on a freelance base, thus had the chance to work with Marilyn Monroe for her last films The Misfits (1960) and Something's Got to Give (1962, unfinished). In 1962, Marilyn Monroe went to Jean Louis to design a special gown for her to go the President John F. Kennedy's birthday party, an illusion gown she has seen on Marlene Dietrich, who sent her to Jean Louis. And what Jean Louis designed was a body hugging column gown in flesh color, similar in silhouette and style to what he had designed for Marlene Dietrich, and the dress was designed to be so tight it was believed that it had to be sewn on Marilyn's body. It was in that almost nude gown Marilyn Monroe sang, or almost whispered "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" in front of 15,000 people at Madison Square Garden. That gown would become one of two most iconic outfits of Marilyn Monore(another is her white halter necked dress from The Seven Year Itch), and the most famous gown designed by and identified with Jean Louis . In 2016, the gown was sold for 4.8 million dollars. Besides films, Jean Louis also worked with TV programs since the 60s, and his most famous collaboration was with Loretta Young. Jean Louis has designed for Loretta Young before, both for her film, as well as for her TV program The Loretta Young Show(1953-1961) where Loretta showcased different outfits in each episode. But in The New Loretta Young Show(1962-1963), Jean Louis designed all outfits for Loretta Young, and the two remained close friends even their collaboration ended in 1963. In 1993, four years after the death of his second wife Maggie, Jean Louis married Loretta Young; they remained married until his death in 1997. BiographieDiplômé de l’École des Arts décoratifs, Jean-Louis Berthault fait ses débuts dans la couture chez Agnès-Drecoll. Lors d’un séjour à New York en 1935, il est remarqué par la styliste Hattie Carnegie qui l’engage pour apporter une « touche » parisienne à ses collections. Il a comme premières clientes l’actrice Irene Dunne et Joan Cohn, la femme de Harry Cohn, fondateur de Columbia Pictures, ce qui va lui ouvrir les portes des studios hollywoodiens.
En 1945, il prend la direction du département costumes de la Columbia puis, quelques années plus tard, de celui d’Universal Pictures avant de s’installer à son compte, créant sa propre maison de confection. À partir de 1958, il travaillera surtout pour la United Artists. Nommé 14 fois aux Oscars, il ne reçoit la statuette qu’une seule fois en 1957 pour Une Cadillac en or massif de Richard Quine. Marié pendant plus de trente ans, il épouse à la mort de sa femme en 1993 l’actrice Loretta Young. Il meurt à 89 ans le 20 avril 1997.
0 Comments
Winifred Jacqueline Fraser Bisset LdH (born 13 September 1944) is an English actress, and she speaks English, French, and Italian. She began her film career in 1965 and first came to prominence in 1968 with roles in The Detective, Bullitt, and The Sweet Ride, for which she received a Golden Globe nomination as Most Promising Newcomer. In the 1970s, she starred in Day for Night (1973), which won the Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film, and Who Is Killing the Great Chefs of Europe? (1978), which earned her a Golden Globe nomination as Best Actress – Motion Picture Comedy or Musical. In 2010, she received France's highest honour, the Legion of Honour. In 2013, she won a Golden Globe Award for Best Supporting Actress - Series, Miniseries or Television Film for her performance in BBC miniseries Dancing on the Edge (2013). BiographyJacqueline Bisset was born Winifred Jacqueline Fraser Bisset in the London suburb of Weybridge, Surrey, England, the daughter of George Maxwell Fraser Bisset (1911–1982), a general practitioner, and Arlette Alexander (1914–1999), a lawyer-turned-housewife. Her mother was of French and English descent and her father was of Scottish descent; Bisset's mother cycled from Paris and boarded a British troop transport to escape the Germans during World War II. Bisset grew up in Tilehurst, near Reading, Berkshire, in a 17th-century country cottage, where she now lives part of the year. She has a brother, Max (b. 1942). Her mother taught her to speak French fluently, and she was educated at the Lycée Français Charles de Gaulle in London. She took ballet lessons as a child and began taking acting lessons while working as a fashion model to pay for them. When Bisset was a teenager, her mother was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. Bisset's parents divorced in 1968, after 28 years of marriage. Bisset first appeared uncredited as a prospective model in The Knack ...and How to Get It (1965), directed by Richard Lester. She made her official debut the following year in Roman Polanski's Cul-de-sac (1966). In 1967, Bisset had her first noticeable part in the Albert Finney/Audrey Hepburn vehicle Two for the Road, as a woman in whom Finney's character is romantically interested. It was made by 20th Century Fox, which put her under contract. She then had a more sizeable role in the James Bond satire Casino Royale, as Miss Goodthighs. Fox cast Bisset in her first lead part in The Cape Town Affair, opposite a then-unknown James Brolin, filmed in South Africa on a low budget. She gained mainstream recognition in 1968, when she replaced Mia Farrow in The Detective opposite Frank Sinatra. The same year, she co-starred with Michael Sarrazin in Fox's The Sweet Ride, which brought her a Golden Globe nomination for Most Promising Newcomer. In 1969, Bisset was top billed in The First Time and Secret World, appearing as a blonde in the latter. In 1970, Bisset was one of the many stars in the disaster film Airport; her role was that of a pregnant stewardess carrying Dean Martin's love child. It was a huge hit. In the film The Life and Times of Judge Roy Bean (1972), she played the daughter of Paul Newman's title character. She played the female lead in The Thief Who Came to Dinner (1973) with Ryan O'Neal, stepping in for a pregnant Charlotte Rampling. Bisset went to France to appear in François Truffaut's Day for Night (1973), earning the respect of European critics and moviegoers as a serious actress. She stayed in France to make Le Magnifique (1973) with Jean-Paul Belmondo, a hit in France but little seen in English-speaking countries. She was one of many stars in Murder on the Orient Express (1974), an enormous success. Bisset went to Germany for End of the Game (1975), co-starring Jon Voight. In Italy, she played opposite Marcello Mastroianni in Luigi Comencini's The Sunday Woman (1975). In 1977, Bisset gained wide publicity in America with The Deep. A marketing strategy based around Bisset appearing in some scenes underwater wearing only a white T-shirt for a top helped make the film a box-office success. At the time, Newsweek declared her "the most beautiful film actress of all time." Shortly thereafter, a UK production, Secrets, that Bisset had made in 1971 was re-released in the United States. That movie featured the only extensive nude scenes of Bisset's career and the producers cashed in on her fame. By 1978, Bisset was a household name. She earned a Golden Globe nomination that year as Best Actress – Motion Picture Comedy for her performance opposite George Segal in Who Is Killing the Great Chefs of Europe?, and starred with Anthony Quinn in The Greek Tycoon, playing a role based on Jackie Onassis. In the early 80s, Bisset appeared in some all-star films such as When Time Ran Out (1980), starring alongside Paul Newman and William Holden, and Inchon (1981), with Laurence Olivier., although Both films were big flops. Her fee around this time was $1 million a movie. In her film Rich and Famous (1981) directed by George Cukor, Bisset also served as co-producer. Bisset received her third Golden Globe nomination for John Huston's Under the Volcano (1984) in the Best Supporting Actress category. In the 80s Bisset also played for television, such as the title role in Anna Karenina (1985), opposite Christopher Reeve, and she portrayed Joséphine de Beauharnais in the miniseries Napoleon and Josephine: A Love Story (1987) with Armand Assante. She also had the lead in some comedies, such as High Season (1987) and Scenes from the Class Struggle in Beverly Hills (1989), taking over for Faye Dunaway due to scheduling conflicts. During the early 1990s, Bisset shot projects on multiple continents, co-starring in Mario Monicelli's Rossini! Rossini! (1991), a biopic of Italian composer Gioachino Rossini; with Martin Sheen for a Paris-based TV movie called The Maid (1991); with Elliott Gould in the Dutch miniseries Hoffman's honger (1993); with Jean-Hugues Anglade in the French language film Les marmottes (1993); and with one of Japan's top stars, Masaya Kato in the Australian TV movie Crimebroker (1993). She returned to North American screens with the TV movie Leave of Absence (1994), opposite Brian Dennehy. In 1995, Bisset was nominated for a César Award for her role in the French film La Cérémonie, directed by Claude Chabrol. She did a couple of period pieces, such as a retired courtesan in 16th-century Venice in Dangerous Beauty (1998) with Catherine McCormack. In 1999, Bisset appeared in two high-caliber television projects, playing the Virgin Mary in Jesus and Isabelle d'Arc in Joan of Arc, earning a Primetime Emmy Award nomination as Best Supporting Actress for the latter performance. Bisset starred in the lead role of Boaz Yakin's Death in Love, which premiered at the 2008 Sundance Film Festival. Her performance as a volatile Holocaust survivor earned her the Best Actress award at the Boston Film Festival. Later that year, she starred in An Old Fashioned Thanksgiving for the Hallmark Channel, and was nominated for a Satellite Award as Best Actress. In 2010, Bisset was awarded the Legion of Honour insignia, with French President Nicolas Sarkozy calling her "a movie icon". Later that year she reprised her role in the sequel to An Old Fashioned Thanksgiving, An Old Fashioned Christmas. In 2012, Bisset returned to the UK to film Stephen Poliakoff's 1930s jazz drama series Dancing on the Edge. For her work, she won the Golden Globe Award for Best Supporting Actress – Series, Miniseries or Television Film. In 2020, Bisset joined the cast of Birds of Paradise from Amazon Studios, shot in Budapest. She plays a title character in Loren & Rose (2021). Bisset has never married, but had long-term romances with French-Canadian actor Michael Sarrazin, Moroccan real estate magnate Victor Drai, Russian dancer/actor Alexander Godunov, Swiss actor Vincent Perez and Turkish martial arts instructor Emin Boztepe.
Bisset is godmother to Angelina Jolie. Joseph Wright ARA (3 September 1734 – 29 August 1797), styled Joseph Wright of Derby, was an English landscape and portrait painter. He has been acclaimed as "the first professional painter to express the spirit of the Industrial Revolution." Wright is notable for his use of tenebrism effect, which emphasizes the contrast of light and dark, and for his paintings of candle-lit subjects. His paintings of the birth of science out of alchemy, often based on the meetings of the Lunar Society of Birmingham, a group of scientists and industrialists living in the English Midlands, are a significant record of the struggle of science against religious values in the period known as the Age of Enlightenment. Many of Wright's paintings and drawings are owned by Derby City Council, and are on display at the Derby Museum and Art Gallery. BiographyJoseph Wright was born in Irongate, Derby, to a respectable family of lawyers. He was the third of five children of Hannah Brookes (1700–1764) and John Wright (1697–1767), an attorney and the town clerk of Derby. Joseph had two elder brothers, John and Richard Wright. Deciding to become a painter, Wright went to London in 1751 and for two years studied under Thomas Hudson, the master of Joshua Reynolds. After painting portraits for a while at Derby, Wright again worked as an assistant to Hudson for fifteen months. In 1753 he returned to, and settled in Derby. He varied his work in portraiture by the production of subjects with strong tenebrism under artificial light, with which his name is chiefly associated, and by landscape painting. Wright also spent a productive period in Liverpool, from 1768 to 1771, painting portraits. These included pictures of a number of prominent citizens and their families. Joseph Wright married Ann (also known as Hannah) Swift, the daughter of a lead miner, on 28 July 1773. Wright and his wife had six children, three of whom died in infancy. Wright set off in 1773 with John Downman, a pregnant Ann Wright, and Richard Hurleston for Italy. Their ship took shelter for three weeks in Nice before they completed their outward voyage in Livorno in Italy in February 1774. Downman returned to Britain in 1775. Although Wright spent a great deal of time in Naples, he never witnessed any major eruption of Mount Vesuvius, however, it is possible that he witnessed smaller, less impressive eruptions, which may have inspired many of his subsequent paintings of the volcano. On his return from Italy he established himself at Bath as a portrait-painter, but meeting with little encouragement, he returned to Derby in 1777, where he spent the rest of his life. Wright was a frequent contributor to the exhibitions of the Society of Artists, and to those of the Royal Academy, of which he was elected an associate in 1781 and a full member in 1784. He, however, declined the latter honour on account of a slight that he believed that he had received, and severed his official connection with the academy, although he continued to contribute to the exhibitions from 1783 until 1794. Ann Wright died on 17 August 1790. On 29 August 1797 Wright died at his new home at No. 28 Queen Street, Derby, where he had spent his final months with his two daughters. Joseph Wright was buried in the grounds of St Alkmund's Church, Derby. Controversially, the church was demolished in 1968 to make way for a major new section of the inner ring road cutting through the town centre, and now lies beneath the road. Wright's remains were removed to Nottingham Road Cemetery. In 1997, his tombstone was placed at the side of Derby Cathedral, and in 2002, it was brought inside and wall-mounted in a prominent place near the well-visited memorial to Bess of Hardwick.
Wright's birthplace at 28 Irongate, Derby, is commemorated with a representation of an armillary sphere on the pavement nearby. The Joseph Wright Centre was opened in 2005 as the new flagship site for Derby College. The building is named after the eighteenth-century painter because his "artwork captured the many scientific and technological advances of the Industrial Revolution." In early 2013 Derby City Council and Derby Civic Society announced they would erect a blue plaque on his home at 27 Queen Street in Derby. |
Categories
All
Archives
December 2023
|