Perfile of Julian FellowsJulian Alexander Kitchener-Fellowes, Baron Fellowes of West Stafford DL is an English actor, novelist, film director and screenwriter, and a Conservative peer of the House of Lords. He is primarily known as the author of several Sunday Times best-seller novels; for the screenplay for the film Gosford Park, which won the Academy Award for Best Original Screenplay in 2002; and as the creator, writer and executive producer of the multiple award-winning ITV series Downton Abbey (2010–2015). As an actor, Julian Fellowes seemed doomed to be someone of background, an actor who was almost never noticed in his various roles in more than three decades; but as a screen writer, he is destined to be great. From Gosford Park to Downton Abbey, his pen, observant, insightful, at times delightful, has given us a world of yesterday, elegant, exquisite, fragile, sutble, long gone but still so real. Biography of Julian FellowsFellowes was born in Cairo, Egypt, the youngest son of Peregrine Edward Launcelot Fellowes (1912–1999), and his British wife, Olwen Mary. His father was a diplomat(and later worked for Shell Company) and Arabist who campaigned to have Haile Selassie, Emperor of Ethiopia, restored to his throne during World War II. Fellowes and his three older brothers: Nicholas Peregrine James, actor and writer David Andrew, and playwright Roderick Oliver lived in Wetherby Place, South Kensington as children and afterwards at Chiddingly, East Sussex, where Fellowes lived from August 1959 until November 1988, and where his parents are buried. Fellowes was educated at several private schools, and read English Literature at Magdalene College, Cambridge, then studied further at the Webber Douglas Academy of Dramatic Art in London. Fellowes moved to Los Angeles in 1981 and played a number of small roles on television for the next two years, but unable to launch his career so he moved back to London a few years later. In 1987, Fellowes played a leading role in the TV series Knights of God as Brother Hugo, the "ambitious and ruthless second-in-command" of a futuristic military cult. In the following years, he appeared in various tv dramas and films, playing mostly aristocratic roles. On 28 April 1990, Fellowes married Lady Emma Joy Kitchener (born 1963), daughter of The Hon. Charles Kitchener (1920–1982) and a lady-in-waiting to Princess Michael of Kent. They have a son. Aside from acting in tvs, films and sometimes plays, John Fellowes wrote novels, scripts for films, tv dramas as well as theatre plays. He also worked as director. In the 1970s Fellowes wrote under the pseudonym Rebecca Greville several romantic novels but became a real successful novel writer after 2000s, all written under his real name. In 2002, the movie script Fellowes wrote for Gosford Park won the Oscar for Best Screenplay Written Directly for the Screen, which also won a Writer's Guild of America award. In 2004 he launched a new series on BBC One, Julian Fellowes Investigates: A Most Mysterious Murder, which he wrote and introduced onscreen.
That same year, Fellowes' novel Snobs was published. It focuses on the social nuances of the upper class and concerns the marriage of an upper middle-class girl to a peer. Snobs was a Sunday Times best-seller. In late 2005, Fellowes made his directorial début with the film Separate Lies, for which he won the award for Best Directorial Début from the National Board of Review. In 2009 his novel Past Imperfect was published. Another Sunday Times best-seller, it deals with the débutante season of 1968, comparing the world then to the world of 2008. The same year Fellowes wrote the original screenplay The Young Victoria which was released in 2009 by Momentum Pictures and Sony Pictures; HE also wrote screenplays for Vanity Fair, The Tourist and From Time to Time, which he also directed, and which won various awards. His greatest commercial success was The Tourist which he co-wrote with Christopher McQuarrie and Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck). It grossed US$278 million worldwide. But it is in 2010, Fellowes achieved his greatest success as a screen writer after creating the period drama Downton Abbey for ITV1. He won a Primetime Emmy for outstanding writing and a Broadcasting Press Guild award. On 13 January 2011, Fellowes was elevated to the peerage, being created Baron Fellowes of West Stafford, of West Stafford in the County of Dorset, and on the same day was introduced in the House of Lords, where he sits on the Conservative Benches. Apart from being involved in politics, Julian Fellowes is also involved in philanthropic works, supporting a number of charities and causes based in England. In March–April 2012, Fellowes wrote a new Titanic miniseries also for ITV1. In 2016, Fellowes wrote another period novel, Belgravia which began broadcast in 11 weekly episodes from April 2016 and is available in audio and text format. In September 2019, The film Downton Abbey , was released. Fellowes was the screenwriter and one of the producers. Further interestArticlesBooksVideos
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ProfileWilhelm "Willy" Maywald (15 August 1907 – 21 May 1985) was a German photographer who was best known for his portrait and fashion photography. Wilhelma Maywald, dit Willy Maywald, né le à Clèves (Empire fédéral allemand), et mort le 21 mai 1985 à Paris, est un photographe allemand qui vécut et travailla à Paris dans le domaine de la mode et des portraits de personnalités. BiographyMaywald was born on August 15, 1907 in Kleve, German Empire (present day Germany) to a family of hoteliers. He grew up becoming interested in the aesthetics of art. Maywald studied at the Technical Schools of Art in Krefeld, Cologne and Berlin. His wide range of education was what let him to be the avant-garde artist that he was. After school, Maywald returned to his hometown Kleve in 1931 but soon realized that the city was too small for the career he wanted for himself. He then moved to Paris where he began his career of photo reporting and befriending other modern artists. He chose to live a bohemian lifestyle and photographed various subjects such as artists, dancers, fashion, etc. Maywald photographed the qualities of living in France with his camera. He became an assistant to Harry Meerson who was a Polish photographer and started to learn from Meerson how to make a living from photography. Maywald moved to Switzerland in 1942 and was held captive in camps for foreigners. In the year of 1943 he was allowed to start working again in portrait photography as a self-employed artist. Maywald was very well known for his black and white photography and stunning lighting. When he moved back to Paris in August 1946 he mainly focused on fashion and celebrity photography. He was one of the first fashion photographers to photograph his subjects in the streets of Paris and he had a way of photographing his subjects in these various places but the image still focused on the model/clothing. He was also known for photographing in unique scenes. Waywald became Christian Dior’s elite photographer but he also worked with other well-known designers like Jacques Fath. His photographs were featured on the cover of several magazines including Vogue and Vanity Fair and he became internationally recognized. Besides photographing fashion, Waywald produced images of celebrities as well. These celebrities ranged from artists to movie stars to athletes: Tamara Lempicka, Hans Arp, Georges Braque, Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, Le Corbusier, Fernand Léger, Joan Miró, Georges Rouault and Maurice Utrillo. BiographieFils d'un hôtelier de Clèves, station thermale à proximité de la frontière avec les Pays-Bas, Wilhelma Maywald va passer son enfance dans cet hôtel à la clientèle raffinée. En 1925, il entre à l'École des arts-décoratifs de Cologne. Ses passions sont la danse, le théâtre et le cinéma. En octobre 1928, il part s'inscrire à la Kunstschule de Westens à Berlin et occupe un poste d'assistant de régie dans le cinéma. Inscrit à l'École d'art de Charlottenbourg où il apprend la photographie, il se rend la même année pour la première fois à Paris et y réalise quelques clichés. Rentré en Allemagne pour quelques mois, il revient à Paris au début des années 1930 et devient l'assistant du photographe russe Harry Meerson. Il loge alors dans un petit atelier au 172 rue de Vanves dans le 15e arrondissement. Il fréquente le quartier du Montparnasse où il habite et a ses habitudes au café du Dôme, mais fréquente également la brasserie de La Rotonde. C'est de cette période que sont nés les liens d'amitiés avec Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, Árpád Szenes, Hans Hartung, Anna-Eva Bergman, Leonor Fini, Marie Vassilieff, Lou Albert-Lasard, etc. Il photographie des artistes comme l'affichiste Cassandre, le coiffeur Antoine, mais également des personnalités scientifiques comme Frédéric Joliot-Curie. Il photographie les jardins de Claude Monet, et de Auguste Renoir. Cette année-là, il rencontre aussi chez son patron la chanteuse Marianne Oswald, Jean-Pierre Aumont, Simone Simon. Il rentre de ses vacances passées en juillet 1933 en Allemagne, profondément attristé par l'ambiance antisémite et fasciste qu'il a rencontrée à Clèves, Cologne, Düsseldorf et Berlin. En 1934, il devient indépendant et ouvre son premier studio « May Va » au 12 rue Victor-Considérant à Paris. Il fait alors des reportages, des portraits et des photos de mode. Il travaillera pour Christian Dior, qu'il rencontre la première fois chez Robert Piguet répondant à une commande, puis une seconde au café du Dôme, en 1936. La même année, c'est lui qui découvre Lisa Fonssagrives, un des premiers top-model de l'histoire du mannequinat qui se mariera plus tard avec Irving Penn, avec laquelle il va beaucoup travailler. Il fait la connaissance de la photographe Florence Henri. Il réalise pour ses amis peintres des expositions de leurs œuvres dans ses ateliers et y reçoit les émigrés allemands et autrichiens fuyant les nazis. L'année 1937 le verra parcourir les chantiers de l'Exposition universelle, et la construction du palais de Chaillot. Alerté par les événements en Allemagne, il part en 1938 à Clèves et apprend que son père a été arrêté et interné dans un asile pour libéralisme et soutien de la cause des juifs. Il ne reverra jamais son père. De retour à Paris, il travaille pour des grands couturiers comme Jacques Heim, Lucien Lelong, Robert Piguet, Marcel Rochas, Elsa Schiaparelli et des magazines comme Vogue. Ses photos de jardins sont publiées dans la revue Verve. Il fait de nombreuses connaissances, dont son confrère Erwin Blumenfeld et Hans Weidt. Bien que vivant en France depuis de nombreuses années, il est considéré comme un ennemi par les autorités qui lui proposent en 1939, comme aux autres émigrés autrichiens et allemands, le choix entre s'engager dans la Légion étrangère ou se porter volontaire pour travailler dans l'agriculture. Son choix sera celui du travail de la terre. Il est donc envoyé dans un camp à Montargis, puis dans un autre près de Blois, et placé dans une ferme. Après bien des pérégrinations, il s'échappe, et trouve refuge chez des amis à Cagnes-sur-Mer. Dans l'attente d'un visa pour l'Amérique, il se lance dans la fabrication de souliers et accessoires en raphia. Son petit commerce fonctionne assez bien, soutenu par le « Varian Fry Rescue Committee » qui s'occupe des réfugiés. Sa production se vend sur toute la Côte d'Azur. Il finit cependant par gagner la Suisse en 1942 en compagnie d'une amie juive, Charlotte Hockenheimer. Il est accueilli à Winterthour en 1943 dans la famille d'un pasteur protestant, puis il reprend ses activités photographiques pour le spectacle. De retour à Paris en 1946, il est hébergé chez Pierre Léauté, Il reprend ses activités photographique en louant le premier étage d'une remise au 22 rue Jacob sans eau courante ni téléphone à l'antiquaire Comoglio. Puis il ouvre un deuxième studio, au no 10 rue de la Grande-Chaumière, dont il fera l'acquisition en 1949 et embauche Sabine Weber comme assistante. C'est une jeune photographe suisse qui deviendra célèbre sous son nom de femme mariée, Sabine Weiss. Elle travaillera chez lui jusqu'en 1950. C'est par l'intermédiaire de Serge Guérin, modéliste de Lucien Lelong, qu'il entrera de nouveau en contact avec Christian Dior et fera les photos de sa première collection du 12 février 1947. Il ouvre sa propre galerie d'art dans les locaux de la rue de la Grande-Chaumière et y expose les œuvres de ses amis Jean Arp, Bott, Heinrich Maria Davringhausen, Hanns Lamers (de), Marcelle Cahn, Karin van Leyden, Pierre Soulages, André Bloc , Francesco Marino Di Teana et bien d'autres. Son travail fait l'objet de publications dans de grandes revues comme Connaissance des arts, Réalités, Life, Maisons et Jardins ou Plaisir de France. En 1968, il travaille pour Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges, Jean Dessès, Jeanne Lanvin, Jean Patou, Nina Ricci, lorsqu'il met fin à son travail de photographe de mode. Jutta Niemann dit de lui : « C'était un homme affable, d'une grande élégance et très simple, avec une grande qualité de l'écoute qu'il accordait à chacun… fidèle en amitié, sa porte était largement ouverte ». Sabine Weiss se souvient de lui comme : Un homme calme, d'un naturel gentil, réservé et qui aimait faire des compliments. Il rangeait son Rolleiflex dans un sac de patins à glace. Il recevait beaucoup et avait un grand nombre d'amis. Ses photos de mode paraissent dans L'Album du Figaro, Femina, Harper's Bazaar et Vogue. Le courant passe bien entre les deux hommes, ainsi qu'avec Yves Saint Laurent lorsqu'il prendra la direction artistique de la maison à la mort de Dior, en 1957. Il travaille également pour Pierre Balmain, Jacques Griffe, Jacques Heim, Jacques Fath, Jeanne Paquin, Gabrielle Chanel ou Schiaparelli. Further interest
Biography of Horst P. Horst
Horst Paul Albert Bohrmann (Aka. Horst P. Horst) was born on 14 August 1906 in Weißenfels-an-der-Saale, Germany in a well-to-do protestant family.
In his teens, Horst met dancer Evan Weidemann at the home of his aunt, and this aroused his interest in avant-garde art. In the late 1920s, Horst studied at Hamburg Kunstgewerbeschule, leaving there in 1930 to go to Paris to study under the architect Le Corbusier. In 1930 Horst met Vogue photographer Baron George Hoyningen-Huene, a half-Baltic, half-American nobleman in Paris, and became his photographic assistant, occasional model, and lover. He traveled to England with Baron Hoyningen-Huene that winter and visited photographer Cecil Beaton, who was working for the British edition of Vogue.
In 1931, Horst began his association with Vogue, publishing his first photograph in the French edition of Vogue in December of that year. It was a full-page advertisement showing a model in black velvet holding a Klytia scent bottle in one hand with the other hand raised elegantly above it... Horst´s real breakthrough as a published fashion and portrait photographer was in the pages of British Vogue starting with the 30 March 1932 issue showing three fashion studies and a full page portrait of the daughter of Sir James Dunn, the art patron and supporter of Surrealism.
Horst´s first exhibition took place at La Plume d'Or in Paris in 1932. It was reviewed by Janet Flanner in The New Yorker, and this review, which appeared after the exhibition ended, made Horst instantly prominent. Horst made a portrait of Bette Davis the same year, the first in a series of public figures he would photograph during his career. Within two years, he had photographed Noël Coward, Yvonne Printemps, Lisa Fonssagrives, Count Luchino Visconti di Madrone, Duke Fulco di Verdura, Baron Nicolas de Gunzburg, Princess Natalia Pavlovna Paley, Daisy Fellowes, Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark, Cole Porter, Elsa Schiaparelli, and others like Eve Curie.
Horst rented an apartment in New York City in 1937, and while residing there met Coco Chanel, whom Horst called "the queen of the whole thing". He would photograph her fashions for three decades.
He met Valentine Lawford, British diplomat in 1938, and they lived together until Lawford's death in 1991. They adopted and raised a son, Richard J. Horst, together.
In 1939, Horst P. Horst took "The Mainbocher Corset" for French Vogue, with its erotically charged mystery, it would become one of the most iconic photoes of 20 Century. Designers like Donna Karan continue to use "The Mainbocher Corset" as an inspiration for their outerwear collections. Horst´s work frequently reflects his interest in surrealism and his regard of the ancient Greek ideal of physical beauty.
On October 21 1941, Horst received his United States citizenship as Horst P. Horst. He became an Army photographer, with much of his work printed in the forces' magazine Belvoir Castle. In 1945, he photographed United States President Harry S. Truman, with whom he became friends, and he photographed every First Lady in the post-war period at the invitation of the White House.
In 1947, Horst moved into his house in Oyster Bay, New York. He designed the white stucco-clad building himself, the design inspired by the houses that he had seen in Tunisia during his relationship with Hoyningen-Huene.
Horst is best known for his photographs of women and fashion, one of his most famous portraits is of Marlene Dietrich, taken in 1942. She protested the lighting that he had selected and arranged, but he used it anyway. Dietrich liked the results and subsequently used a photo from the session in her own publicity.
As a versatile photographer, Horst P. Horst is also recognized for his photographs of interior architecture, still lifes, especially ones including plants, and environmental portraits.
Horst´s method of work typically entailed careful preparation for the shoot, with the lighting and studio props (of which he used many) arranged in advance. His instructions to models are remembered as being brief and to the point. His published work uses lighting to pick out the subject; he frequently used four spotlights, often one of them pointing down from the ceiling. Only rarely do his photos include shadows falling on the background of the set. Horst rarely, if ever, used filters. While most of his work is in black & white, much of his color photography includes largely monochromatic settings to set off a colorful fashion. Horst's color photography did include documentation of society interior design, well noted in the volume Horst Interiors. He photographed a number of interiors designed by Robert Denning and Vincent Fourcade of Denning & Fourcade and often visited their homes in Manhattan and Long Island. After making the photograph, Horst generally left it up to others to develop, print, crop, and edit his work.
In the 1960s, encouraged by Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, Horst began a series of photos illustrating the lifestyle of international high society which included people like: Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Duke of Windsor and Duchess of Windsor, Consuelo Vanderbilt, Marella Agnelli, Gloria Guinness, Baroness Pauline de Rothschild and Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Yves Saint Laurent, Comtesse Jacqueline de Ribes, Lee Radziwill, Helen of Greece and Denmark, Baroness Geoffroy de Waldner, Princess Tatiana of Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg, Peregrine Eliot, 10th Earl of St Germans and Lady Jacquetta Eliot, Countess of St Germans, Antenor Patiño, Oscar de la Renta and Françoise de Langlade, Desmond Guinness and Princess Henriette Marie-Gabrielle von Urach, Andy Warhol, Nancy Lancaster, Doris Duke, Emilio Pucci, Cy Twombly, Amanda Burden, Paloma Picasso.
The articles were written by the photographer's longtime companion, Valentine Lawford. From this point until nearly the time of his death, Horst spent most of his time traveling and photographing.
In the mid 1970s, while keeping his work with Vogue, including its Italian, French, British editions, Horst began working also for House & Garden magazine, Vogue´s sister publication, touring around the world. But he dedicated more of his time to writing books and exhibiting his photography.
Horst's last photograph for British Vogue was in 1991 with Princess Michael of Kent, shown against a background of tapestry and wearing a tiara belonging to her mother-in-law, Princess Marina, who he had photographed in 1934.
Horst P. Horst died at his home in Palm Beach Gardens, Florida at 93 years of age.
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Horst Portraits: 60 Years of Style 1st Edition by Terence Pepper (Author), Horst P. Horst (Author), Charles Saumarez Smith (Author) Horst's photographic career spanned from 1931 to 1991. The son of a hardware store owner in eastern Germany, Horst found his way to Paris, where he became the assistant to George Hoyningen-Huene, chief photographer for Paris Vogue. Largely self-taught, Horst began publishing fashion photos in Vogue fewer than two years later and eventually established the style of sophisticated posing and dramatic lighting that would make him famous. In this book, published to accompany an exhibit that originated at the National Portrait Gallery and is currently at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, Pepper (curator of photographs at the National Portrait Gallery) and Muir (former picture editor for British Vogue) offer Horst's images of the leading figures in the arts, movies, and society that have become the very pictures most often associated with these famous faces. Included are portraits of Noel Coward, Cecil Beaton, Katharine Hepburn, Gertrude Stein, Salvador Dali, and others, as well as many famous fashion models. A biographical essay traces Horst's life and influences. Notes on the plates describe the sitter, photographic session, and other interesting details that enrich the images. Horst: Interiors Hardcover – November 1, 1993 by Barbara Plumb (Author) Since the 1950s, interior design photographer Horst has had unmatched access to the private homes of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Oscar de la Renta, Andy Warhol, Yves St. Laurent, and Palamo Picasso. A unique insider's view of the rooms inhabited by the elite of America and Europe. 200 color photos. Around That Time: Horst at Home in Vogue Hardcover – October 4, 2016 by Valentine Lawford (Author), Ivan Shaw (Author), Hamish Bowles (Author) Vogue’s Book of Houses, Gardens, People (1968) was a landmark publication among decorating books, and it chronicles an important chapter in the history of Vogue. Vogue’s Horst P. Horst, a leading fashion photographer of his time, developed an intense interest in seeing the world’s great homes and meeting their owners; beginning in the early 1960s, he journeyed in an elite world that would soon be lost. With accompanying lyrical essays about homes and their occupants by the famed writer Valentine Lawford (Horst’s partner in work and life), the book is a virtual who’s who of society, politics, and the arts in the mid-20th century. Around That Time showcases much of the material featured in the original book, plus never-before-seen photographs from those homes as well as images from additional homes Horst shot well into the 1980s. Horst: Sixty Years of Photography Hardcover – July 15, 1991 by Martin Kazmaier (Author), Host P. Horst (Photographer) Celebrated Vogue fashion photographer Horst P. Horst defines an attitude, a genre, with his studies of women--icons of elegance, unattainable goddesses--captured with calm detachment. This tony tribute to the work of the German-born, New York-based photographer is studded with portraits of figures from 1930s' Paris--Coco Chanel, Gertrude Stein, Cole Porter, Janet Flanner, etc. The book includes a multitude of portraits--many predictable, others revealing--of luminaries such as W. H. Auden, Truman Capote, Katherine Hepburn, Andy Warhol, Calvin Klein, Brooke Shields, Harry Truman, the Duchess of Windsor. Horst's still lifes and stagey fashion ads often border on kitsch, but every so often he turns out a strong, original beauty like the raindrop-stained Still life with Tulips (1950), radiant, sincere and gorgeous. Kazmaier is a German dramatist and photography critic.
HORST, HIS WORK AND HIS WORLD, SIGNED BY HORST
$450.00 [Signed by Horst and Valentine Lawford]Horst, Horst P. Horst, His Work and His World. First Edition. 1984. Book and dust jacket are both in very good condition. Book is signed by both authors (Horst and Valentine Lawford) on the half title page. This four hundred-page book is by far the most comprehensive monograph on Horst P. Horst’s six-decade-long career, beginning with his apprenticeships for Le Corbusier and Baron George Hoyningen-Huene. The heart of the book is his fashion work, featuring images of designs by Mainbocher, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Dior, Valentina, Yves Saint Laurent, etc.. In addition to the three hundred color and black and white photographs, there is extensive (and surprisingly candid) commentary by Lawford, with dozens of quotes taken directly from Horst. “Fashion is an expression of the times. Elegance is something else again.” --Horst |
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